PLHT219TCBT Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.

Removed the screws on the piece holding the switch which is at the front of the ceiling of the refrigerator box. Removed the old switch and replaced it. Very simple repair.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

Remove ice pan below ice maker. Got mirrow verifed the type of screws. Obtained nut driver and felt it at right angle remove screws only have way. The ice maker lifts up and off. Took needle nose pliers to grip and remove electrical connection plug. The instruction and picture sent was no help the picture were the size of a thumb nail no detail could be determine. I installed the adapter plug and all the extra length wiring was the most difficult to type wrap with both hands extended out in front. I finally wrestled it in on to the two screws unscrewed from the wall about 1/2". Keep the ice maker water lever up and ensure it aligns to the water trough inlet. Works Great.
glg

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.

Ice maker is held by 2 screws just above the unit, on the wall of the refrigerator. You can't see the screws, so borrow your wife's makeup mirror. Shine a light into the refrigerator, and using the mirror, locate the two screws, holding the unit in place, on the wall of the refrigerator. Using a nut driver, or socket wrench, with a 1/4 in socket, loosen up the two screws, but don't remove them. Bump the unit upwards, and away from the screws. (BEFORE doing anything!! Shut off the water supply, unplug the refrigerator) When you get the unit freed up, just unplug the old unit, and install the new one. You don't even have to worry about the water lines, and you'll see why, when you get the old unit off. Just reverse the procedure, installing the new unit. Very Simple, 10 to 15 minutes tops.

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.

I started look inside ,disconnected power, and open all possible compartments to see any burned part. Fortunately I fined a small part look like melted and then i went online and make my research .Then i ordered that part and change it.

Had to reach right hand to top of ice maker to locate hex head screws by feel, then place nut driver onto hex head by feel and then unloosen screws with lft hand ,a couple of turns, enough to lift ice maker off screws.
Replace new icemaker onto screws and tighten screws. The only problem incountered was the location and availability of having to feel with both hands to fit nut driver onto the screws.(could not see with my eyes because front of ice maker blocked view. )

Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ

The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.

If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.

In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.

Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.

Hope this helps someone. :)

purchased a new freezer gasket. It is still iceing in the freezer but now all over the top part and down the back. The new gasket does not secure tight enough around the entire freezer door when it is closed. It is secured properly to the door but does not "grab" tight enough when the freezer door is closed.