FRT18BRBW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the lower trim panel from front of fridg. and loosened two screws enough to turn it about 1/4 inch so the screw heads were in the larger holes. Pulled it out disconnected the wire connector and transfered the heat shield and screws to the new clock, connected the wire connector and aligned the screws. tightened them and job done. Has worked like new sense. Thanks Roger

Emptied freezer, removed fan motor cover (2 screws), removed fan and motor (2 screws), removed old motor from bracket and reassembled with new motor, transferred fan blade from old motor to new), re-installed new fan/motor (2 screws) and reinstalled cover...

The old drain pan had a 1 ½” tall bushing attached to the center of the pan. The new pan did not have this bushing which was great. I had to cut about 1 inch off the bushing to remove the old pan. Also after cutting the bushing I had to screw the bushing off after cutting the old pan from the bushing. I installed new pan onto the ½” of threads that was left on the top of the compressor. Checked repair two days later all was great.

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

According to the information from the parts select website the thermostat and the defrost timer where ranked number 1&2 as likely to fail and cause the condition experienced. To replace the Defrost thermostat just remove the freezer bins and the lower panel covering the evaporator. Remove the old thermostat, measure the wire lengths and install the provided crimp splices. Note: the heat shrink tubing is WAY over-sized and will not shrink to the size needed. You will need another means of sealing the wire connection. Install the thermostat and replace the panel and shelves. The timer is real easy. On my model it is located under the freezer door under the kick panel on the front. Simply remove 2 Phillips head screws, unplug the old unit and install the new one. Be sure to cycle the thermostat past the defrost cycle on the timer (rotate until an audible click is heard once for the beginning of the cycle and one at the end) so that the unit will start up when power is reconnected. This resolved my problem and the unit is working great!

One of the three top comments from other replys had similar problems, so I took their advice, since the prices were resonable, I went and replaced two parts instead of just the defrost timer. If I had to do it a second time I could probably do it all in about 20 mins.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed control knob and cover. Unwired control and removed same. Removed plastic tube from old capillary tube and placed on new unit. Installed and wired in new unit, making sure new unit was in the "off" position. Plugged in refrigerator, turned control knob to the first numerical setting, and was rewarded with the startup of the refrigerator compressor. Voila!

bottom left cornerof fridge defrost timer replaced two bolts and a wire

pulled down the thermostat cover and unpluged the timer control and replaced it with the new part. total time to repair was about 15 min. there was a vidio on how to replace the new part that just informed me that I did it right!!!!very easy site to find what you are looking for!!!!

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!

Unplugged the frig. Removed temp control module from frig, 1 screw with nut driver. Activated defrost timer by rotating adjustment until 2 clicks are heard. Removed two timer mounting screws, unpluged timer, plugged in the new timer, mounted it to the control module with 2 mounting screws. Replaced control module with the 1 mounting screw. Closed door and plugged it up.

After reading reviews I was not sure but I ordered part on Wensday in the AM and I had the correct part Thursday evening this company rocks thank you by the way i paid for regular shipping I will order again in a heartbeat

Took off the old crisper drawer cover supports with the screw driver and put the new ones with the screw driver and small hammer (really easy)thank you to your installation instructions video.

pulled out freezer, went to floor,reached in next to compressor pulled off clip just like on the video.Pulled off old capacitator took off wire leads.Installed new one. Freezer runs great.Loaded it up with beef pork and venison. No problems.