FRT22RGCBA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

According to the information from the parts select website the thermostat and the defrost timer where ranked number 1&2 as likely to fail and cause the condition experienced. To replace the Defrost thermostat just remove the freezer bins and the lower panel covering the evaporator. Remove the old thermostat, measure the wire lengths and install the provided crimp splices. Note: the heat shrink tubing is WAY over-sized and will not shrink to the size needed. You will need another means of sealing the wire connection. Install the thermostat and replace the panel and shelves. The timer is real easy. On my model it is located under the freezer door under the kick panel on the front. Simply remove 2 Phillips head screws, unplug the old unit and install the new one. Be sure to cycle the thermostat past the defrost cycle on the timer (rotate until an audible click is heard once for the beginning of the cycle and one at the end) so that the unit will start up when power is reconnected. This resolved my problem and the unit is working great!

One of the three top comments from other replys had similar problems, so I took their advice, since the prices were resonable, I went and replaced two parts instead of just the defrost timer. If I had to do it a second time I could probably do it all in about 20 mins.

we removed the food from the freezer, disconnected the fridge , removed the cover, the evaporater fan was running, condeser fan was running, then we checked heater with multimeter and it was ok. next step we replaced the frostimer, and defrost thermostat . and then the refrigarater was working ok, problm was the frost thermastat damaged.

Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.

Based on the diagnosis on this site I thought the 66% odds of the problem being the Defrost Timer looked pretty good, $30 including shipping versus a Sears tech phone estimate of $250-300. BINGO! Just follow the online installation instructions and don't forget to use the reset switch as described. Works like new! THANK YOU

Watched the video once. Removed four 1/4 inch screws with a nut driver unplugged the unit, took out two screws securing the timer. Replaced did all of this in about 10 minutes. It was "exactly" as the video showed and it's worked perfectly since the replacement of the faulty timer. I saved a $75.00 service call minimum and the part was more than likely cheaper from Part Select than from the repair facility. Although I'm a pretty good handy man, you would not need any experience to make this repair. The instructions are precise and the part fit perfectly.

tested the thermostat, cleaned the coils, checked seals all clean. defrost timer did not cycle so replaced it but issue not resolved. even though freezer was working while refrigerator was problematic, proceeded to open freezer panel. discovered that fan was not pushing cold air into refrigerator compartment due to ice build up in connecting tubes. cleaned ice and replaced panels to positive result

snaped new caps into openings

I opened the box the bin came in and un wrapped it from the bubble wrap. I then washed out the bin and installed it in the door.

I first thought the defroster heater broke - took the back wall of the freezer off and cooling fins were fine. Then took the defroster timer out and opened it up. The contacts were badly burnt so the compressor and fan ran during only part of the cooling cycle. Replacing the timer took less than 5 minutes - turn off the power, remove one screw to take out the control box, cut the ground wire (new timer housing is plastic and does not have a ground connection), remove two screws to unmount the timer, unplug the old timer, plug in the new timer, fasten with two screws, put the control unit in and fasten with one screw, turn power back on.

real easy with the help of the video , made the difference

Looked up troubleshooting info on your web site. Decided to replace the defrost timer. Ordered it using Paypal. Received the Shipment in about 1.5 days in Rural NC. Watched Your Video, cut off power to the fridge, removed the top self and unbolted the panel, removed the defective defrost timer, installed the new one and re-installed the panel and top shelf. Set the timer to defrost to check the operation (looked inside the freezer to see that the defroster was glowing red - it was) waited about twenty minutes to ensure that the fridge started cooling again. Fixed!

Diagnosis: used wiring diagram attached to frig and determined cause could be wiring, heater element, thermostat or timer. After completely defrosting the frig (turned it off) I removed the rear cover in the freezer and looked for an obvious problem. None seen. Removed temperature select pod from the frig box and looked for obvious problems. None seen but defrost timer appeared poorly made. Repair: Since I had no practical way of checking the defrost cycle in operation, I checked probable failures on the Part Select website and saw defrost timer as most probable. I ordered the timer. Installed it. Waited a few days to make sure the frig went through a few defrost cycles then removed the freezer rear cover. There was no excessive frost buildup so I'm reasonably sure the repair was successful.

replaced the defrosting timer and saved a lot of $ by doing it my self.