RT196PCW1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

per the video..easy installation....unfortunately the temperature did not improve. We still have a refrigerator temp in the upper freezer.....and a "cooler" in the refrigerator section

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

it was great. I ordered the capacitor for my frigidaire frig and it arrived
in 3 days. plugged in the part to the compressor and my frig has been
working ever since. I spent 3 minutes ordering the part and 30 seconds
attaching it to the frig. Easy, very easy. saved myself a 75 dollar repair
visit. thanks

First I replaced the defrost thermostat, then I realized that the evaporator fan would stop turning periodically. I could restart it by spinning the fan with my finger. The fan is behind a cover in the back of the freezer. If you remove the cover and check on the fan when you hear the condenser fan in the back running. (They seem to run at the same time.) It was easy to replace the fan and the new one is more powerful than the original. The refrigerator runs fine now. Thank you for this great site. Saved me a lot of $$.

I watched the videos (they really help) and followed the steps. Everything went smooth with no surprises

The repair was straightfoward. The evaporator motor I received from partselect was a different model with different wiring configurations. I cut the wires from the new motor per the instructions I received with the new motor and I did the same with the wires that connect to the fridge. Once I matched the wires and secured them with electrical caps I began to put the evaporator motor to the base and started screwing the screws the way I took them off. Once I connected the wire harness to the back of the freezer and turned it on I noticed a big difference in air flow. I was surprised at how easy it was to fix my refrigirator problem. It's been a few weeks now and the fridge is cold and working like it should. Don't be afraid of this task. it's very easy and will save you a ton of money. Thanks partselect.

Removed screws that fastened bracket to fridge. Next, I replaced the motor and carefully lined the brackets up so the motor would rotate smoothly. Put the fan blade on the motor and screwed the brackets back on the fridge. Motor kept popping out of alignment while I was screwing the brackets back in but I kept snapping it back in till it stayed.

I original tried to repair the motor but was not able to. I remove the screws on the back plate and removed the the back plate. Removed the shroud for the motor and screws, unplug the power connection and removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan motor and reassembled everything. The refrigerator is working great.

Turned off Refrigerator by thermostat switch in Freezer Compartment,(allowing for light to work in freezer). Then removed all food from freezer side,then all shelves & basket drawer. Next, unplugged refrigerator from electrical source. Removed back of inside of the freezer. Located the Thermostat for defrosting cooling coil. Removed and replaced with new part.(Tip-unplugged the wires for the original thermostat, remove from freezer and cut off and splice with connectors provided with new part, it's easier because you're not trying to do this in the narrow space of the freezer). Then attach the thermostat with new bracket and plug thermostat wires back in, replace back panel, shelves, plug in power supply, turn thermostat switch in Freezer to normal setting. Wait for Freezer to cool and replace food. It's currently working like new. BTW I thought I need a defrost time as well...however after I ordered that part and received it, I turned the existing defroster timer manually with a straight ended screwdriver very slowly and it cycled and the defrost rods glowed/functioned just fine. Therefore I didn't replace defrost timer. I'll save the new timer for future repair if needed. All in all it was fairly easy, and I didn't have to buy another fridge. I was really pleased with the service of this website...and the parts arrived very quickly via Fedex. Thanks www.partselect.com ! KJ

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.

The old drain pan had a 1 ½” tall bushing attached to the center of the pan. The new pan did not have this bushing which was great. I had to cut about 1 inch off the bushing to remove the old pan. Also after cutting the bushing I had to screw the bushing off after cutting the old pan from the bushing. I installed new pan onto the ½” of threads that was left on the top of the compressor. Checked repair two days later all was great.

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

After reading other posts, I decided to change the defrost thermostat, so I watched the videos, and did that. It got better, but the problem persisted, and the ice was still building up in the freezer section. So I decided that the problem was with the defrost heater. I ordered a new one, that was here under 24hs (using the Fedex ground). I replaced it, measured the old one and saw that it was not passing any current at all (so it was really burnt). Now the fridge is good as new, maintaining the proper temperatures both at Freezer and Fridge sections. Thank you Parts Select ! With $ 70 in parts I was able to get back my appliance working !!!

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.

removed everything from door, removed screws in gasket around door, laid door face down(insulation side up)applied rtv around edge of gasket and door, waited 10 minutes and started with top screw in middle of top then middle of sides and bottom then installed remaining screws checked levelness of refrigerator, the you are done