FPCE19TFL1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.

Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.

followed documentation from Frigidaire website.

You lift the old seal and unscrew the nut, being careful not to break the plastic holding the seal down, do not remove the screw the whole way. If you take your time and be methodic it is not difficult, just time consuming. Remove the old seal and start putting the new seal in. I would advise finger tightening the screws every 12 inches or so as you go. Then go back and tighten each side as you complete it.

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.

tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.

A screw driver was used to remove two screws that held the old fan in place the new fan ws installed exactly where the old one came out and presto the job was complete. No major deal.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I didn’t do the repair because the new motor had a female pigtail connector while the original motor has male connection. It came with wire clamps but didn’t want to cut wires to make repair. The pictures online show a male connection. Put the old motor back in and now it works fine.

Discovered the coil was covered with 1/2 inch of ice because defrost cycle had not been working. Replacing the defrost timer and melting ice with hair dryer fixed problem. Hooray!

Repair was very simple. I only had to snap the end caps in and fit the door racks over those and snap them in.

a handyman made the repair. It went fine.

Our old gasket was shot to hell, so we figured we'd replace it to see if that would solve the problem. We followed the instructions of another customer. We realized it was better if we removed the entire door in order to attach the gasket. That took a little doing, but it was totally the way to go. Miracle of Miracles, the leaking has stopped, the food is super cold, and I couldn't be happier.