FPCE21TILW1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.

Rey easy , like a knife through soft butter

Replaced the old end cap with the new one. Took less than a minute.

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

Dear Part-select,
I had a fridge that was not working food was melting in the freezer, Beer was warm. You get the picture anyway using your site I found the parts needed to to fix the issue in fact I ordered two parts one fixed the issue 50% and the other like 30% of the time! both parts with overnight shipping were cheaper than 1 part if purchased at our local appliance part outlet:) not to mention the cost of a repair person. Thanks again! . Keep up the good work


Tom Houck
Spokane, WA
Houck Photo
509-723-3418
tomhouck1@comcast.net

It was very easy. Pulled off the old valve and replaced with the new one and it started making ice right away. There are a couple of issues you need to be aware of that I am watching closely now. The old valve was a 15 watt valve. The one they sent me is a 35 watt valve. It really pressures the water into the ice maker. So much so I am getting a little leaking from the overflow. Its working so well and powering the water in so fast it starts to leak a little due to being to full. When I ordered the part, no where did it show the wattage of the valve so be careful. It works great but will have to keep an eye on it so it does not overflow.

Made sure water was going into valve, shut off water to valve, removed it. removed two connections, replaced with new valve, Walla, off & running. Incidentally, rec'd new valve much quicker than I ever expected.

There were about 30 or so hex head screws holding the interior panel to the door; best to use a power hex head driver. Removed the gasket from the old panel, put the gasket on the new one and reversed the process (there were about a dozen less screw holes on the new panel). Went without a single hitch in less than an hour!

Snapped the end caps onto the existing shelf, and eased the assembly into the door slots. Light tapping with a hammer was required to fully seat the assembly into the door. All in all, a straightforward and simple repair.

Refrigerator started frosting up and running all the time.I'd defrost it and it would frost up again in about a week.The timer seems to be work so I just guest it mite be the Defrost Thermostat.I removed the duck in the center and back panel in the freezer compartment defrosted it and switched Thermostats and replaced panel and duck, going to lower compartment of the refrigerator.So far it seems to be working a little more time while tell.

Traced issue to defrost timer ( burned compressor & element contacts). This unit is mounted next to the temperature adjustment control in the refridgerator area - right in front. Removal of plastic cover provided easy access to the timer. Unit unscrews from the mounting then unplugs. Installation is reverse of removal.

Put glass in the new crisper cover and the support bar in place.

I simply removed 4 screws holding the casing and then 2 more holding the timer. It was very easy. I then replaced the timer by unplugging and plugged the new one in. I replaced all the screws and the job was done. Less than 30 minutes. I was very impressed with the shipping time. When I ordered the part, I had it the next day.

Replaced defrost timer & thermostat.

Removed dead water valve. Installed new water valve.