MRT21NSGD1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.

removed freezer door and installed the new one. This was a pretty easy thing to do, although putting the old handle on the new door was a challenge. No knowing that there is a plastic piece holding the top of the handle i broke the that piece and had to order another one. Mean while the freezer was making alot of frost inside, so that had to be cleaned after the new part came.

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.

I watch the how to repair video on line and the repair went very quick and easy.It was just like the video,no hidden suprises.

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.

Use the rubber brushing to fill the gap.

Moved the old gasket aside to gain access to retaining screws in top freezer door. The new seal in the container we received was twisted, so laid it flat and used a hair dryer (as you advised) to regain the proper shape. Did everything possible, to align the gasket. Opened the freezer door to remove the retaining screws, began to reinstall the new gasket. The top came down both sides well. Attempted to install screws across the bottom, the gasket was so twisted would not conform back into the retaining frame on the bottom of the door. Therefore, it fits poorly. No proper seal. Sincerely, Jesse & Mary(also, the bottom of the freezer door plastic form was very brittle, broke where the screws fit....so we had to make a piece formed like a strip to re-enforce the areas that 'cracked' off so as the screws could align the bottom areas.

Dear Part-select,
I had a fridge that was not working food was melting in the freezer, Beer was warm. You get the picture anyway using your site I found the parts needed to to fix the issue in fact I ordered two parts one fixed the issue 50% and the other like 30% of the time! both parts with overnight shipping were cheaper than 1 part if purchased at our local appliance part outlet:) not to mention the cost of a repair person. Thanks again! . Keep up the good work


Tom Houck
Spokane, WA
Houck Photo
509-723-3418
tomhouck1@comcast.net

Problems. Two screws holding temperature control module to the plastic case did not fit the holes in temperature controler were too big. So I used gorilla glue to help secure but it was still loose a little bit with all the connections made i turned it on but it did not work

Put glass in the new crisper cover and the support bar in place.