FRT21NRGB1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

It snapped in place.

just like the video showed...it was excellent!!!

took 4 screws out of the discharge vent on top of the refrigerator section and unpluged the wiring harness and put the section on the counter and unscrewed the timer and put the new one in and reinstalled the assembly and plugged the Jack and put the 4 screws back in, and rotated the timer and put it on defrost removed the back and check the heaters and drain .

dismantled the top rear panel of the freezer and found I had the wrong part. Hand started the fan motor and it has been working fine since.

1 went with maj 69% said defrost timer. NO. 2 went with second choice run cap NO. 3 went with my thought, ( PTC Starter ) why not, most exp part. Fixed the problem.

I order defrost timer then replaced it but it seemed doesn't work. I order defrost thermostat again then it worked fine until now. Thanks. Part selects.

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

Followed the instruction video. Removed the old one. Attached the fan blade, ground wire and connected power plug. Reinstalled with 2 screws. Works great.

First I replaced the defrost thermostat, then I realized that the evaporator fan would stop turning periodically. I could restart it by spinning the fan with my finger. The fan is behind a cover in the back of the freezer. If you remove the cover and check on the fan when you hear the condenser fan in the back running. (They seem to run at the same time.) It was easy to replace the fan and the new one is more powerful than the original. The refrigerator runs fine now. Thank you for this great site. Saved me a lot of $$.

I watched the video you had on-line and it was simple. Thank you so much

I original tried to repair the motor but was not able to. I remove the screws on the back plate and removed the the back plate. Removed the shroud for the motor and screws, unplug the power connection and removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan motor and reassembled everything. The refrigerator is working great.

The old drain pan had a 1 ½” tall bushing attached to the center of the pan. The new pan did not have this bushing which was great. I had to cut about 1 inch off the bushing to remove the old pan. Also after cutting the bushing I had to screw the bushing off after cutting the old pan from the bushing. I installed new pan onto the ½” of threads that was left on the top of the compressor. Checked repair two days later all was great.

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

bottom left cornerof fridge defrost timer replaced two bolts and a wire

first I replaced the timer control hoping thats the problem,unfortunately situation the same ice build up on the freezer.so I replaced the defrost thermostat.right now I'll still observing the condition if still the same.may be in couple days.so far its good.and to replace the parts is not difficult and easy.