PLHT189CSBE Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.

The repair was fast and easy .I removed the ice tray , disconnected the wiring connector and lossend two screws. I removed ice maker assy.and repeated in reverse order to install. I also installed a new water filter. I had ice in about 20 minutes.

Since the glass was broken and gone I just had to slide the new glass on top of the crispers. This was not really a repair, just an exchange of new for the old.

Simply slide the new glass insert in!

Very easily did the repair -- popped the new door shelf right in the place of the old one! No tools needed, no hardware, easy! The part actually measured 24 3/4 but the replacement part said "26 inches" on website & this was THE replacement part. Put this off for so long--ordered part and recd within 2 days, great!

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.

I started look inside ,disconnected power, and open all possible compartments to see any burned part. Fortunately I fined a small part look like melted and then i went online and make my research .Then i ordered that part and change it.

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.

I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.

It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.