FLSC238DB6 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed the past suggestions and I opened the parts list to understand what was where. Caution when removing the face plate. The flat white connector pulls out easierly. It can be plugged back in after. I have big hands so it was hard to connect the water back to the unit. Other wise it went ok.
OH , make sure to unplug the refrigirator. I touch the control board and got snapped.

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

The line for the water to the door was too short to install. Lacked about 4-6”Ice maker line was fine.

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

I just slipped it into place.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Replaced bad parts with new parts it went easy

The repair could not be completed. I ordered a thermostat defrost kit but received a collar arbor for a saw. They do not answer the phone at customer service and the order took close to two weeks to get in the first place. Beware of shopping at this site!