MRS19BRAW1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old fan--three small nuts and snap off connection. Ordered part and received the next day. Your company is great!!

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

i looked byhind the freezer , the mottor has the relay connected to it.i took out the relay, and i descovery something was loose inside, i decided to take to check out at sears to see if they have in stock that especific relay. they did not have, they could order, that's when i dicided to go ahead and looking for in the internet, good i found PARTSELECT,they had the part and i was very nice attended,they sent in 2 days i had fix my freezer. thanks PARTSELECT. gilmar couto.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

The end caps worked perfectly for both the Frigidaire and Westinghouse fridges. Just pulled out the old end caps and then literally just pushed in the new ones (remember to attach the shelf bar before attaching the second end cap!). The pieces arrived quicker than expected. Thanks Partselect!

I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Removed broke bracket. Installed new bracket (part #100). Now, everything is O-TAY!

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.