FFHT2117LB6 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Discovered the coil was covered with 1/2 inch of ice because defrost cycle had not been working. Replacing the defrost timer and melting ice with hair dryer fixed problem. Hooray!

Replaced thermostat and defrost timer and still freezer to warm.
After research with U-tube video of (Fixin it with Pappy) discovered that my fridge has one thermostat in fridge section and in cold months (live in ohio)the garage is cold therefore themostat in fridge does"nt need to tell the compressor to kick on. Pappy is a retired engineer and in very easy to follow instructions will show you how to fix this problem. Strongly suggest to search for his video on Utube. I did as he instructed and my fridge freezer works great in cold weather now. Its apparent to me I wasted my money on the parts. I didn't` need to replace. Just happy my Beer fridge is working all seasons now.
John from Ohio

easy. took glass tray that held meat draw out. unscrewed old rail screw new one in. put glass try back in frig. put meat try back in.

It was real easy but I still have problem making ice cubs
Fell problem is in the ice maker went it dose make cubs they don,t dump

Most of my time was spent removing food items from the shelf that supported the rails. Once that was done, a quick removal of the screw, replace the left support rail and re-installing the screw. Done. I wish all of my repairs were so easy!

Wow. What an easy repair. It was so easy I literally had my 10 year son complete the repair.

(Handyman requirement for Cub scouts).

Removed 1 screw and pulled out old broken guide rail, replaced with new part and screwed it back in.

It took long to wash and clean the shelves we pulled out than it did to make the repair.

Emptied the shelf. Took out the shelf. Screwed in the one screw for the support rail. Put shelf back in. Put drawer back in. Works like a charm.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

I tied in to your web site orderd the parts the part were here in a day 1/2open cartons expecting to be broke but to my suprised they were in great shape and then fit perfectly the first time love your company.

Screwdriver

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.

Simple repair and less than 30 minutes.
But the video you had was taken down which showed you need to wind the timer. I called and was promptly sent another video, thanks Ashley !

Unfortunately the second video did not mention that you have to wind the timer, like the first video did. Turn clockwise till you hear 2 clicks.

All good. 20 year old fridge chugging along.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.