FRSR25V5AW3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

took the screw out of the white flange on the top of the door that attaches to the top of the refrigerator. Then removed the cover , and the two screws attached to the refrigerator top. Then lifted off the door removed the bottom plate that is holding the plastic door holder. and replaced the broken part and replaced the bottom plate , set the door back on the hinge and installed the top two screws and the flange cover and the last screw holding the flange cover in place. It actually took longer to type this than the repair

Downloaded a schematic of the ice container. Disassembled the ice container, keeping track of which different type of screws went where. Followed the schematic to ensure proper sequence of blades and spacers. Manually rotated unit prior to installing into the freezer in case of binding. Finished.

removed ice denspenser and replaced spring and flap'

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.

Removed three screws from cover to gain access to the two mounting screws on the water filter housing assembly. How to remove the water line connectors took the most time as I had not seen that type of fitting before. Other than that it was drop dead easy.

Removed the door marking the top hinge placement prior to removal. Pulled the door the rest of the way off. There wasn't anything keeping it attached on the bottom right side. Turned the door upright dug out the old broken cam and replaced it with a new one. Thank you for your web-site. It saved us $$$ you have gained two new fans to your web-site. I have shared your link with many. To to anyone who is having a popping noise when you open your door. Do panic. Log on to Part Select .com. It is your only source of sanity.

Thank you

Liz

Had to disassemble the entire ice maker bucket. Simple and straightforward, didn't need any pictures or reference materials. Just time consuming.

Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.

Before removing door, remove everything from on the door including the shelves, then close the door. Using a step ladder to access the top of the door, I removed the plastic hinge cover at the top of the refrigerator door using a Philips head screwdriver, remove the screw located at the back of the cover and slide the cover forward and up to remove. This will expose the two 3/8 machine screws that hold the top hinge bracket. Remove the screws using a socket or wrench. Then lift up on the hinge bracket from the top of the door to remove it. As long as the door is closed it will remain stable with little pressure to keep from falling. Then lift the entire door from the bottom hinge assembly and lay it across an arm chair or flat elevated surface so you can access the bottom door hinge bearing. You will see a bracket screwed to the bottom of the door with two 1/4 machine screws, it is the door stop bracket and this has the door hinge bearing inserted through it. My bearing was broke in half , the first piece fell out when I removed the door and the other piece was still inserted in the door. I removed one 1/4 screw from the stop bracket and loosened the other screw to allow the bracket to swing away from cavity that holds the bearing. Using needle nose pliers I remover the broken piece of the bearing. This part is nylon or plastic and can be cut into pieces if need be to remove it. Once removed, I cleaned the cavity, reinstalled the stop bracket assembly then inserted the new bearing. Gently align the door to the bottom bracket and set it in place, a second set of eyes may help. Once the door has been seated and in the closed position replace door bracket and the two 3/8 screws at the top of the door, check the alignment before you tighten. Check door operation! Then tighten the screws and replace the plastic cover by pressing down on the cover and sliding it back to align the Philips screw to be replaced .

I picked up this fridge at a yard sale for 75.00 and still had the price tag on it 910.00. What a deal. When I placed the fridge in the garage as a second fridge I said to myself this thing has an icemaker so I'm going to hook it up. After pluming all the connections and hitting the water button on the outside holy tsunami in the fridge after I just cleaned the whole thing. Now I was at a loss burnt half the day pluming this thing and now I was on a mission. I went online to see if I could get parts and sure enough this website came up. Like all the other post says all you need is a nut driver to remove the old and replace with the new. One thing that I kind of messed up on I didn’t know which line was in and this is marked on the top of the new Filter Cup and Housing Assembly and there was a brown connector and a white connector. The brown connector in the in and the white is the out. One last thing I usesd a flat head screw driver to pop the water lines off. I tried by hand but they would not pop off.
This bad boy was making ice in about 2 hours. Very fast shipping and very easy repair.

Thanks!

I emptied the door of food, removed the top hinge by removing two screws. I then lifted the door off the lower hinge. The teflon hinge was just sitting in the bottom bearing. I removed the broken one and replaced it with the new bearing hinge. I didn't need the door stop. I then put the door back on the bottom bearing hinge and returned the top hinge. After replacing the food, the job was done and the "catch" and noise were gone! Success!

Followed the online video from this site

I started look inside ,disconnected power, and open all possible compartments to see any burned part. Fortunately I fined a small part look like melted and then i went online and make my research .Then i ordered that part and change it.

It was easy getting to the part, the most consuming part was getting the water tube back,when putting it back to together my hand did not fit to replace the tube, the tube is just long enough to fit with mechanism in place.what i did was take a small phillips put it trough the water sprout into the the tube to guide the tube into place,that worked for me.all in all it took 20min-15min spent on trying to get the tube in place.

Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.