FRS20NRAD3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed front low grill, removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Reversed process to install new timer.

Website was great!

The defrost timer was right in front. 2 minutes and a screwdriver and I had it replaced.

To replace the thermostat, I had to take out the back panel, defrost it and then install the new part. the only problem was that the heatshrink tubing they sent was too large. Otherwise, it worked great.

just like the video showed...it was excellent!!!

took 4 screws out of the discharge vent on top of the refrigerator section and unpluged the wiring harness and put the section on the counter and unscrewed the timer and put the new one in and reinstalled the assembly and plugged the Jack and put the 4 screws back in, and rotated the timer and put it on defrost removed the back and check the heaters and drain .

Ordered the new part-Unplugged the refrigerator - took off the cover over the defective timer - put in the new part put the cover back on - plugged the refrigerator back in - so far, so good!~

After reading other posts, I decided to change the defrost thermostat, so I watched the videos, and did that. It got better, but the problem persisted, and the ice was still building up in the freezer section. So I decided that the problem was with the defrost heater. I ordered a new one, that was here under 24hs (using the Fedex ground). I replaced it, measured the old one and saw that it was not passing any current at all (so it was really burnt). Now the fridge is good as new, maintaining the proper temperatures both at Freezer and Fridge sections. Thank you Parts Select ! With $ 70 in parts I was able to get back my appliance working !!!

It was do easy I removed the front of the drawer pleced on the new one and I was done .no tools needed.

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

there were three possible problems the timer, the thermostat, or the heating element.i replaced the timer first as that is the problem 65% of the time and that did not fix the problem, i replaced the thermostat and that did fix the problem. after watching the video on line from parts select i took the back off of the freezer from the inside, defrosted the coils with a hair blower and then swapped out the thermostat which pops right off and i spliced the old connectors to the new thermostat. the heat shrink tubing that came with the part was a little to big so i put a smaller peice on each side for water proofing. that is what the cigarette lighter is for to supply heat to the heat shrink tubing.now that i have fixed that problem i may tackle the ice maker next

Removed the lower trim panel from front of fridg. and loosened two screws enough to turn it about 1/4 inch so the screw heads were in the larger holes. Pulled it out disconnected the wire connector and transfered the heat shield and screws to the new clock, connected the wire connector and aligned the screws. tightened them and job done. Has worked like new sense. Thanks Roger

Purchased switch and socket, not sure which had failed. Moved all frozen food to refrigerator, turned off breaker. Used nutdriver to remove two screws holding box containing switch and socket. Removed old switch and socket. Removal was slightly difficult since cabling came off both sides of the box. Installed new switch and socket and bulb. Turned breaker back on, checked light as workiing. Replaced scrrews to re-intstall switch box ( or whatever you call it ) Closed door and waited for freezer to cool. Returned all frozen food to freezer. Job Done

I used a pick to remove the lugs from the old starter. Clicked them right in the new one and it went to woking!!!

snapped the wires from frig onto the proper prong and viola,it works. The proper prong is identified by the size because there are two prongs with the wires and two connecting prongs in the socket. I talked to a very helpful representative and she gave me the number for Frigidaire, when I was confused by the placement of the wire. Wish I had remembered her name to share with you. As it turned out I didn't need to call Frigidaire.

I unplugged the refrigerator then removed the temperature adjustment knob from the thermostat which protrudes through the plastic cover located inside the top of the freezer compartment. Then the two hex head retaining screws were removed from the underside of the plastic cover allowing it to drop down and grant access to the bad thermostat control module which was then unplugged and removed from its mounting. The temperature probe is also removed from its sheath at this point as it's attached to the thermostat and has to be removed as well, it simply slides out of the sheath. Installation of the new part is the reverse of the removal of the old part. My refrigerator now works as good as new. Problem solved. The replacement part seemed a little bit pricey for what it is but, in my opinion, was delivered very quickly. As stated by another here, writing this report has taken longer than the repair did.