FSC23R5DSB3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

I unplugged the fridge and removed the dispenser's drip plate. There are 3 screws holding the front fascia. I carefully slid the fascia up to removed it. I unplugged it from what looks like a circuit board from the dispenser. Remove 3 more screws that held the board exposing the ice dispenser's hole and the water actuator. To give myself a little more room to work, I disconnected the board from the fridge. Attempted to removed the water hose but i couldn't, but found out didn't need to. I used a longer philip's screwdriver to unscrew two very small plates that were holding the actuator in place. Need a magnitized screwdriver for this, my hands are too big to reach in there. It took about 15 minutes. NO extra parts or additional parts to order.

I unscrewed the cover, took out old filter, put in new filter and replaced cover. End of story. Oh...don't forget to turn off the incoming water supply.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

First I removed the cover for the filter.(long nut driver) then the two screws holding the filter housing, held the retaining plungers in, and removed the filter housing. Then reversed the process and put it all back together. Simple.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

I ordered a replacement on-line (real simple, visual aids helped more than model nos). Once I received it in the mail, I installed it (no tools required) and now my water filter and ice maker are back to doing what they do best!

My hand turned the water filter casing around until it unscrewed and then I put in the new water filter.
Screwed the casing tight and I was finished.

Simply unscrewed cover on water filter and pulled old filter out. New filter comes with o-ring on filter. Simply reversed procedure and installed new filter.

Took the old one out, put in the new one, and after a couple of days, had a bucket full of ice. I had been fighting this problem since within the first year of purchase of the refrigerator. It's so great to open the freezer door and see it full of ice!!!

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

The repair could not be completed. I ordered a thermostat defrost kit but received a collar arbor for a saw. They do not answer the phone at customer service and the order took close to two weeks to get in the first place. Beware of shopping at this site!