FRS20ZRGD1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.

removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!

Followed the online video from this site

Removed shelf brackets to allow the removal of the evaporator sheetmetal cover. Unpluged wires to thermostat ,removed defrost timer and plugged in new timer,(front left lower kick panel). Cut and resoldered wires to new thermostat reinstalled thermostat and cover in reverse order. I knew what parts I needed and how to repair the unit,however your customer comments were spot on and would help anyone perform a successful repair (you provide a helpful service for the public)

I picked up this fridge at a yard sale for 75.00 and still had the price tag on it 910.00. What a deal. When I placed the fridge in the garage as a second fridge I said to myself this thing has an icemaker so I'm going to hook it up. After pluming all the connections and hitting the water button on the outside holy tsunami in the fridge after I just cleaned the whole thing. Now I was at a loss burnt half the day pluming this thing and now I was on a mission. I went online to see if I could get parts and sure enough this website came up. Like all the other post says all you need is a nut driver to remove the old and replace with the new. One thing that I kind of messed up on I didn’t know which line was in and this is marked on the top of the new Filter Cup and Housing Assembly and there was a brown connector and a white connector. The brown connector in the in and the white is the out. One last thing I usesd a flat head screw driver to pop the water lines off. I tried by hand but they would not pop off.
This bad boy was making ice in about 2 hours. Very fast shipping and very easy repair.

Thanks!

Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.

I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.

It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

Removed the back cardboard cover and then 1 retaining screw from the back of valve. Unhooked all 3 tubes from valve (careful to remember which on went were), removed the 2 electrical connectors attached to the solenoids. replaced all the connectors and water lines onto new valve and tested for leaks then I moved back under the fridge where it was mounted and tightened retaining screw, checked for leaks then Pushed the fridge back in. Works Great!

Had to reach right hand to top of ice maker to locate hex head screws by feel, then place nut driver onto hex head by feel and then unloosen screws with lft hand ,a couple of turns, enough to lift ice maker off screws.
Replace new icemaker onto screws and tighten screws. The only problem incountered was the location and availability of having to feel with both hands to fit nut driver onto the screws.(could not see with my eyes because front of ice maker blocked view. )

I checked all areas such as water flow in the door and to see if any of the lines from the water valve was clogged. After finding that the lines were clear and the water flow was good through the door. I also checked the Ice maker to make sure it was going through its cycles. I also noticed the valve was making a loud noise when it would try to put water in the Ice maker. I did check the line to the Ice maker inside the refrigerator to see if the water had frozen in the tube. I removed the two screws that hold in the valve and reconnected the water line and the line heading to the lce maker and now my Ice maker is fully functional and making ice like always. The repair was easy and anyone could do it. Also remember to unplug appliances when you work on them, just a safety reminder.

just put new bin in slots

Remove filter housing cover (one 1/4" hex screw). Remove the quick disconnect water lines. Replace filter housing with new (two 1/4" hex screws). Reconnect water lines. Reinstall cover.

Removed power , unplugged wires and 2 screws then reversed the process 1 hour later first batch of cubes dropped into bin