FRT20PRAW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed the advice posted by others at parts select website. This made the repair process easier. Everything went very well, and my refrigerator is working just fine. I definitely will use parts select in the future for any appliance parts and repairs I may need.

I found this website via a google search and clicked on the link suggesting solutions for the symptoms I had. I decided to order the part (defrost timer) that was proven the larger percentage of time to fix my issue (warm refrigerator) but decided to also purchase the evaporator fan motor as it was suggested by my brother to replace it as well. We powered off the refrigerator and removed the back wall of the freezer and completely defrosted the unit. This seemed to be the most work and longest time to complete. We used a hair dryer to do this. Once the ice was gone, we replaced the defrost timer, which seemed to fix the warm refrigerator part. We didn't immediately swap out the evaporator fan as the power plugs did not connect properly and it was a little confusing on how to accomplish this. I called partselect back and they didn't have anyone that could talk to me throught the replacement process but recommended we call frigidaire. Meanwhile, we found out that the defrost timer corrected the warm refrigerator and now that the evaporator fan could move (no longer frozen in ice) it was making a lot of noise. So we contacted fridgidaire, and they were able to provide me with a similar video on connecting the power between the new evaporator fan motor and the refrigerator. . We ended up snipping both power connectors (from fridge and new part) and twisted the wires togehter and now the fan is moving without noise, the freezeer and refrigerator is working like a champ! Very happy outcome!

Ordered new parts, removed old parts, put in new parts. Done.

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.

Part Select suggested probable causes and supplied videos of how to make the repair of a 25 yr.old refrigerator along with the specific parts to order. I was about to trash the old refrigerator but after replacing the parts for a total of about $40 and 1 hour of time it works fine now.

Unplug the refrigerator. You will ultimately need to remove the back panel of the freezer. But first, you will need to unscrew 2 screws on a small vertical fan vent and unscrew two screws on the fan. Maneuver the fan out of the round hole in the back panel and unplug the 3 prong wire connection. Then remove the fan. Unscrew the 4 remaining visible screwson the back pannel and remove the panel. This will expose the freon coils. On this model, the heater has two connections at the top of the coils. Unplug those wire connections. The heater extends down each side of the coils and along the bottom of the coils. Unhook two aluminum ties that connect the heater element to the coils. These ties stabilize the heater element and also prevents any current from flowing along the element because of the touching of two different metalic parts. Maneuver the heater element out of the coils. To install the new heater, reverse the above process beginning with installing the new heater element. If it hasn't already been done, it is good idea to test the old heater element with an ohm meter to make sure that the element is actually bad. The circuit should be open. This is the second heater element that I had to replace on this refrigerator, and it was actually burned in half both times, so I knew for sure the element was bad. Then test the new element to make sure it is good, and start the installation..

The instructions given to me by part Select were very good.I replaced the Timer- checked the heater with oham meter it was good- checked the door weather striping it was good and replaced the thermostat with new .So at this point I may need to call a professional unless some one has another solution.

I followed the advice of many people with the same problem, and replaced the Defrost Thermostat and Defrost Timer. Both repairs were relatively easy, and the problem appears to be solved. The replacement of the Defrost Timer is very easy (about 30 minutes), and I wish I had stopped at that step and waited 48 hours to see if that fixed the problem. But, I wanted to replace both parts that I had purchased - - In my refrigerator, access to the Defrost Thermostat is through the back of the freezer panel. Not too difficult to get to the area, but I had a bit of a problem in replacing the part, and might have been better-off to see if step 1 fixed the issue. The problem that I ran into is that I don't have a crimping tool, and crushed both of the connecting sleeves when trying to 'crimp' them with a set of wire-strippers. Rather than to invest in a crimping tool, I connected the wires and sealed with electrical tape - - Now that the issue is resolved, I will likely re-open and use a proper connecting sleeve (with a proper crimping tool). My advice is to buy both parts, and replace just the Defrost Timer first. Chances are good that it may fix your problem, and you are only out $20 for the second part, which you can leave in your junk drawer until you may need it some day! All in all, it was a great way to spend $40 and avoid a costly service call!

Based on other problems listed I determined I had a bad thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. Since my refrig is over 14 years old I decided to replace all three components since I don't have testing equipment. As a former aircraft mechanic in the Air Force who did a lot of removal and replacement of components I didn't have any problems. Your videos were very helpful and on point. My refrigerator is now working perfectly. My rational for replacing the three components was it was still cheaper than having a refrigeration person to come out and I received your parts the next day. By the way, the defrost timer is located outside in the bottom left front of the refrigerator while the videos suggested that it was inside under the control panel. Thanks!

Replace evap fan motor. Take a close-up picture of the evaporator fan motor installation prior to removing. Take pictures as removing various components.

I first thought the defroster heater broke - took the back wall of the freezer off and cooling fins were fine. Then took the defroster timer out and opened it up. The contacts were badly burnt so the compressor and fan ran during only part of the cooling cycle. Replacing the timer took less than 5 minutes - turn off the power, remove one screw to take out the control box, cut the ground wire (new timer housing is plastic and does not have a ground connection), remove two screws to unmount the timer, unplug the old timer, plug in the new timer, fasten with two screws, put the control unit in and fasten with one screw, turn power back on.

real easy with the help of the video , made the difference

Unplugged the frig. Removed temp control module from frig, 1 screw with nut driver. Activated defrost timer by rotating adjustment until 2 clicks are heard. Removed two timer mounting screws, unpluged timer, plugged in the new timer, mounted it to the control module with 2 mounting screws. Replaced control module with the 1 mounting screw. Closed door and plugged it up.

Problem not consistent. OK for 2-3 weeks, then freeze coils. Mark and observe the defrost timers manual rotating adjuster. Timer would stop mid cycle. One revolution equals 8 hours of compressor run time followed by 30 minutes of defrost. Replacing timer took 5 minutes.

I followed the procedure online and found the thermostat was ok, it had continuity when cold, and the heater coil was also ok, it too had continuity, therefore the problem was a bad defrost timer. the refrigerator works great, thanks parts select!