FGSC2335TD9 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Original unit had screw on lugs. After removing old unit, I unscrewed the lugs, cut the lines to remove the nuts and inserted them into the new unit. Everything was color coded so connection was simple. Reinstalled unit, cycled the ice maker several times only to discover the fill tube at in the freezer had frozen ice blocking the tray from getting water. Used a hair dryer to thaw out the tube, water flowed instantly. Very easy repair.

The part arrived in about 2 days! The right side support that is attached to the inside wall of the refridgerator, that holds the crisper guide, broke apart and would not support the crisper. We took everything off of that shelf and took out the crisper and the glass that is on the shelf. We then carefully pried the support from the interior wall (it was a slow tedious move to be sure we did not damage the wall of the fridge). We made sure all of the pieces were out and snapped the new one into place. For some reason the old one did not want to come out. It broke into many pieces and we carefully pulled all of the little pieces out of the notches

My repair plan is to continue buying parts for it until is starts working. I notices a large rusty stain on the back of the refrigerator, so I replaced the Ice Maker. Then, I replaced the Evaporator Motor. Yet nothing will come on.
I called Conn's Home Plus where I bought the Frigidaire Refigerator back in February 2014. The Tech said that It needs a Board-main Power (computer part). So I it ordered from PartSelect. It is due here by July 20, 2020. The Parts and Tech cost is now over Five Hundred ($500) dollars.
HELP!! I need INSTRUCTIONS, HELP!!!
Albert F. Alfaro in San Antonio, TX.

I TOOK A PICTURE OF THE LABEL INSIDE THE DIVICE SO I DID NOT NEED OT REMEMBER IT WHILE GOING TO MY COMPUTER TO LOOK UP THE PART. I FOUND PARTSELECT AND ORDERED THE PART. I GOT GOOD EMAIL COMUNICATION FROM PARTSELECT ABOUT THE ORDER AND EXPECTED DELIVERY. I DONOT REMEMBER IF THEY KEPT THEIR WORD BUT THE PART CAME IN SOON ENOUGH. WHEN IT ARIVED I GOT MY BOX KNIFE AND CUT THE BOX OPEN TOOK OUT THE DRAWER AND SLIDE IT INTO THE SPOT WERE THE BROKEN DRAWER WAS. I DID CLEAN THE SPACE WHERE THE OLD DRAWER WAS IT WAS EMBARRISING DIRTY. I WOULD RATHER NOT TALK ABOUT THAT BUT IF YOU LIKE I CAN SEND PICTURES. THE DOOR IS WORKING FINE JUST LIKE THE ORIGINAL ONE DID. PARTSELECT WAS A GREAT CHOICE IT WAS QUICK AND EASY. IF YOU DONT USE PARTSELECT YOU ARE GOING TO JUST MAKE YOUR REPAIR HARD ON YOURSELF.

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

Took out old replaced with new. Now it makes ice

We had someone to come and look at it and we were told it was the solenoid valve. The repairman unstuck it for us and said when it does it again, he would have to order the part. We took it upon ourselves to order the part and DIY. We replaced the part that we were told was the problem and "guess what" it's still not fixed. It's still shooting out crushed ice. Will have to call repair guy back out here to see what we did wrong.

I followed the video and everything went smoothly. After pushing the pin in I pulled out the broken pin with needle nose pliers-very easy just like on the video. It took more time finding all the simple tools than the job itself-well almost!

very easy, make sure to watch the provided you tube video.

Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.

I ordered the replacement part, and when it arrived, I used a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the two glides from the old drawer and installed them on the new drawer by snapping them into place. Then I removed the sliding humidity control from the old drawer using gentle pressure, and installed it on the new drawer. Then I slipped the drawer into its place, loaded the vegetables into it, and was done in less than 5 minutes.

Just place new filter and lock it!

As it turns out when i pulled the drawer out and then the door holder i discovered that there was a big piece of material that was suppose to be around the water line that was causing the problem. The old drawer holder was not the problem so the new piece was not needed. All is well.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.