EI23BC32SS3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove filter by twisting counter clockwise

Install bypass by twisting clockwise

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

It was real easy took the lines off one by one put them on the new unit one by one same with the three plugs than tighten new unit back on fridge.

i put casket on i notice when i received casket in shipping box was bent on the end of the casket 's did not solve problem casket not flush air is due to damage from shipping in the box not happy with the product.

I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in place.

VERY EASY SLIDE OLD ONE OUT AND PUT NEW ONE IT

Removed old water valve w/ screwdriver, cut threads off old hose (as they just plug straight into new valve) & pushed hoses into new water valve. Solved both problems!!!!

The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.

If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.

In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.

Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.

Hope this helps someone. :)

Watched the video on your website and you can’t go wrong.
Thanks for being there
Mike

Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.

Old valve comes out with 2 screws, water lines removed and reinstalled on new valve just as they came off the old valve. Entire job took less than 10 minutes. Very easy replacement.

Remove the freezer drawer by unscrewing the two 12mm screws on both sides of the drawer.
Lift the drawer up out of the slots the frame and away.
Lay the drawer on a padded surface to protect the drawer cover finish.
Pull the old gasket out of the drawer and discard.
Position the new gasket around the edge of the drawer. Starting at one corner press the gasket into the slot in the drawer edge. Continue working the gasket until you return to the starting point.
Inspect the gasket to ensure it is seated in the slot completely.
Return the drawer to the refrigerator, placing the lugs on the drawer into the slots of the frame and insert the screws to their original position and tighten securely.
Inspect the drawer for proper level/sealing in the freezer drawer position. Adjust as necessary.