FPCI-21TH Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

A screw driver was used to remove two screws that held the old fan in place the new fan ws installed exactly where the old one came out and presto the job was complete. No major deal.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

I didn’t do the repair because the new motor had a female pigtail connector while the original motor has male connection. It came with wire clamps but didn’t want to cut wires to make repair. The pictures online show a male connection. Put the old motor back in and now it works fine.

1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket.
3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section.
4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer.
5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat.
6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape.
7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location.
8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves.
9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling.
10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.

It was very easy. Took off water line and two screws. Put new valve back on and presto life (ice) is good again.

Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.

Followed video instruction and completed the replacement. I had to join the wires since the connector was a male plug to a make plug.

Followed the instructions provided in your video, took less than 15 minutes and works like new. Thank you for the parts and the advice.

My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.

Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.

Unplugged the fridge. Removed water inlet valve from fridge. Used voltmeter to test for resistance (between 50 and 150 ohms). Didn't pass the test.
My original part was 218720400. I ordered part PS468507 from partselect.com. My original part had a "garden hose" coupling so PS468507 fit the bill.
This part's electrical connection wasn't angled the same way as the original so we had to finagle it.
Hooked the plastic refridgerator supply hose up first.
Then screwed on the copper "garden hose" connection to the valve using channel lock pliers. Was careful not to over tighten.
Then the fun started. The electrical connector wires were a tight fit between the copper tubing and the refridgerator frame. Did I mention that the electrical connetion wasn't angled the same as the original? My daughter got her smaller hands in there and was able to make the connection.
NOTE: Because of the angling issue I was unable to screw the anchor plate to the fridge.
I made sure that the valve did not interfere with the fan.
Turned on the water and checked for leaks.
Plugged the fridge back in and in a couple of hours we had ice cubes. Works like a charm!

It was very easy. Pulled off the old valve and replaced with the new one and it started making ice right away. There are a couple of issues you need to be aware of that I am watching closely now. The old valve was a 15 watt valve. The one they sent me is a 35 watt valve. It really pressures the water into the ice maker. So much so I am getting a little leaking from the overflow. Its working so well and powering the water in so fast it starts to leak a little due to being to full. When I ordered the part, no where did it show the wattage of the valve so be careful. It works great but will have to keep an eye on it so it does not overflow.

Made sure water was going into valve, shut off water to valve, removed it. removed two connections, replaced with new valve, Walla, off & running. Incidentally, rec'd new valve much quicker than I ever expected.

Removed dead water valve. Installed new water valve.