FRS22ZGGB1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

Unloaded the drawer, pulled it out, took off the front panel, put the panel in the new drawer, reloaded the drawer, and put it back into the fridge.
I had the new drawer back in the fridge before the wife even knew I had taken it out of the box. I have been banished from storing my beer in the bottom drawer sincs I broke the old one. This should be the last drawer repair that I have to make.

I basically followed the instructions offered when i searched for the ice maker. It was relatively easy to do, I undid the 2 screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, the was the tricky part, holding a mirror so i could see the slots of the screws. loosened them, disconnected the electrical connection and reversed the process for the install. It took about 25 minutes and i was back making ice.

Pulled the upper drawer out, slid the faceplate/handle up and out of the channel in the drawer. Took the new drawer and slid the faceplate/handle down into the channels and it was done.

I turned the refrigerator off and took the screws from the inside back panel of the freezer. Then I took two mounting screws from the evaporator letting it pull out at the bottom a few inches. Then I removed the Defrost Heater and installed the new one. Then I put the mounting screws back in and replaced the Thermostat. Then I put the back panel back on and turned the refrigerator back on. It has been working for now.

I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Loosened the 2 screws a little so that it would slide up and off then unplugged the wire harness.
Installed the new one in reverse order and works like a champ.

it was really easy changing the ice maker. the only trouble i had was the wiring. it was very stiff and hard to route. it did not work at first but that was my fault did not have the connector plugged in all the way.since then it works great.

I removed the old housing (three screws) , pulled it out about three inches and discounnected the two water lines. Then I put the new one on, attached the two water lines & I had water immediately & ice within a couple of hours.
Really it was a no brainer, but I'm sure I saved at least $50 doing it myself.

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

Discovered water filter housing broken allowing water to leak out when using water in door function.
Found part number using Part Select diagrams. Ordered part from Part Select,. shipping time about 3 days.
Removed 3 screws houlding from cover over housing assembly. Removed cover, removed old, broken part by pulling water lines from top of unit. Replaced new housing in place, connected above mentioned water lines, replaced cover and holding screws. Tested for leaks. Everything worked great.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

After posting the specific symptoms and getting feedback, I had narrowed the cause to two linked parts. I ordered both intending to replace first one, then the other as needed. With parts in hand, I pulled off the freezer control knob, used a nut driver to remove the two panel securing screws (behind the face, against the inner ceiling) and gently dropped the cover down. The control (temp sensor and cold control) is easily accessible as it sits wedged into two slots in the plastic cover. The control must be slightly lifted in order to extract the long sensor that attaches to the control and runs under it and into a plastic sleeve behind the panel (the new control comes with the sensor wrapped in a tight coil and it must be unwound for the install). Removed the three wires noting which color goes where. Used needle-nose pliers to remove the small push-on tabs and removed the control. After starting the new sensor probe into the sleeve re-attached the 3 wires to the new control. Used the original as a model for how to pre-bend the probe for the first 2 inches as it was mildly frustrating to position the unit back correctly. Pushed everything back into place, re-installed the screws and plugged the fridge back in...(you DID unplug it first, right?). Still haven't used the second part (defrost timer), but I expect it to go soon...it is a 17 year old refrigerator, after all.