TT18SKXRD01 Estate Refrigerator - Instructions

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

1 removed bottom off old ice maker (3 hex screws) and ice drop shield (white plastic ice flips over into ice holder, old unit had different drop angle, see how described below, but I just musled it off the old unit) 2 removed "ice sensing bar off new ice maker and rotated mechanical sensor to on (leatherman tiny flat head) 3 removed end cap from new ice maker, then loosened to large screws (Phillips, leatherman) for motor unit cover. This allowed removal of ice drop shield on new unit (two tabs, one at each end). 4 removed ice drop shield and installed old ice dropshield on new unit 5 tightened two endcap screws (Phillips/leatherman) and reinstalled end cap 6 installed old bottom unit/tray on new ice maker (3 screws) 7 ensured wiring matched and routed plug properly 8 installed unit slides in 9 plugged unit to existing plug 10 installed old wiring shield (1 hex screw). Waited two hours to verify water valve worked properly, although IR codes did indicate "okay". Machine has been making ice and IR sensor shuts it off properly. So far a success. I have many spare parts if I need to do further repairs including a new water solenoid. Only saying it was a bit difficult because of the parts exchange, in actuality for me it was really easy.

Simlpy removed two screws to remove the old part. replaced the new part and put the two screws in. Job finished.

removed two screws and pulled part out of the unit. The local appliance store said they needed model and part # to try to identify and order the part. Found part select online, found the part immediately, ordered the part for $4.50 or so. Part was delivered in 2 days! Very easy installation and the part works perfectly. Thanks so much!

Removed brokent tube fitting from the compression nut.
Removed two screws holding the fill tube. Removed and replaced the fill tube. Direct replacement, no cutting tube length. Reconnect water line to the new fill tube.......Done.

The plastic part that connects the fresh cold water to the ice maker in back of the fridge cracked.
Do to the fact that Whirlpool has the part stick out on the back top part of the fridge. So if you push the fridge just an inch too far back the plastic part will crack.
I ordered (The Part S&H)- came to about, $11.00.

1. Turned off the cold water under the sink.
2. In the back of the freezer section. I unscrewed the two screws that held the old broken part to the fridge.
3. I opened the freezer section and cleared out the top shelf till I could see the back of the fridge.
4. I removed the old plastic part by pushing & wiggling it about forward and it then extended out the back of the freezer side and then I pulled it out the back and it came out.
5. I slid the new replacement part in basically the reverse of step 4.
6. I connected the hose in the back. To the new, replacement plastic part, that fills the automatic ice tray with water.

7. Once finished I glued a small 2”x2” piece of wood next to the new part so the fridge will never get too close to the back wall so to never break that part that sticks out again.
Before just a small bump could break the part and water is everywhere and this leak could happen slowly at first and the next day what a mess.
Some fridges have this part recessed into the back of the fridge so this would never happen as my other fridge has.
Also, this might seem like more work then it was. It was very simple. I was scared I'd screw it up, but just did it step by step. If I had someone do it. It would have cost me a bundle.
It took more time to type this, then to do the work.
I had no instructions to follow, but again, was easer then I thought it would be.
I hope that this was helpful,
Jim Vourakis

I live in Alaska, my son called me from Wyoming and gave me the Model number, I ordered the part and had it shipped to him. Saved twelve bucks over all. And got it there faster than the local appliance store..
In and out in 5 minutes.