TS25AFXKQ04 Estate Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

I assumed the motor had burned out. I removed the 4 hex-head screws to remove the bracket holding the motor. I had to squeeze the electrical fitting to the motor located in the right rear of the compartment in order to electrically disconnect the motor, since the lower part of the fitting has a latch that prevents its easy removal. Then I could insert a vice grips on the shaft and on the coupling in order to (reverse) unscrew the coupling from the motor. I initially received the wrong replacement motor, but when the correct one arrived, it installed on the mounting bracket easily and I reinstalled the bracket with motor easily. It turns out a new motor did NOT fix the problem, so I'm not sure what to do now.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

Found the control bracket housing had broken and micro switch for the water pump was not making contact with mechanical link. (In other words when you put a cup under the dispenser and push water did NOT come out.)

I removed the faceplate and switches, removed all the switches and installed them in the new control bracket. Installed new control bracket into fridge and tested. Works! Reinstalled faceplate and switches and drained system for a few minutes. Man I forgot how good filtered water tasted!

nothing to repair, simply removed the old ice container and auger from the freezer and replaced with it with the new one.

I removed the outer ice/water dispenser cover following directions I found on-line (push down and gently pry out at the bottom). I then removed several nut-head screws which were holding a plastic plate which had the door light and electric control wiring mounted in it. Behind that I found a broken tab on the Control Bracket which was why my water dispencer was not working and I found the chute door for the ice maker was chewed up which allowed warm air into the chute and was causing my ice build up problem. Replacing the Control Bracket was easy. Just note how things come apart. Putting the chute door in was a little more complicated, but again, note how things come apart and you should not have a problem putting it back together.

Removed food itmes on broken shelf. Removed old glass shelf cover. Removed broken shelf bracket. Installed new shelf bracket. Intalled new glass shelf cover. Replaced food items back on shelf

took back of refrigerator, removed water lines, removed electrical connections. removed 2 screws holding water valve, replaced water valve, replaced electrical connection, replaced water lines. Put back on refrigerator. Tested water on freezer door. Didn't work, had to take refrigerator back off again and check the electrical. I didn't get one of the connection put on securely, Put back on refrigerator, check water on freezer door. It worked. Make sure the electrical connection are connected this will sav you about 10 minutes of repair time

a simple replacement

Pretty easy to replace..just take your time with the ice crusher but the teeth are labeled a..b..and c. This auger is steel so I should have no problems with this breaking. I received this item less than 24 hrs after I ordered it! On Christmas eve...Thanks to all of you

Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.

Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove four screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.

The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.