TT18DKXDW01 Estate Refrigerator - Instructions

I was able to replace the the shelf bars with no difficulty after finding the right parts on PartSelect. The easy to view measuring menu helped me get the right size for the fit I needed. You always worry when you don't have the item in front of you but they make it easy to gauge. I will use them again. I replaced three bars that had been driving me crazy.

Took liner out and installed heater and insert kit. In a matter of minutes. I'm a female and was excited to be able to make the repair myself. Especially when I went out to purchase a new one. $55.00 to repair was a lots better than the price of a new one!!!

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

Took a little while to figure out that I needed a flat tip screwdriver to lift up on the top of the plastic housing in order to tip it forward and remove it. After that I used pliers to remove the wires from the old parts and place them on the new. Removing and replacing the parts was performed by hand.

Had to take everything out and defrost the whole refrigerator dry up and than took back off at bottom and the one covering the Bimetal. The hole was plugged so we took the compressor and blew it and finally got all the ice out before we put on the Bimetal. This is the 4th time we fixed this and I don't know why it won't last longer than 8/9 months. The warrenty is for a year and so far I have gotten 2 refunds thank you!

We followed de video that made it very clear to us. Thank you! It's been working great since...

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

Take off the cover of compressor area (lower back of the fridge)Take off the cover of the Compressor Relay and Overload, using flat screw driver; then pull the over load first or you can pull both at the same time; use Pliers and flat screwdriver (ps take a picture for position of the relays and wires colors before), replace old parts with the new ones and put them back, NOTE: before plug it back you may like to check the condenser coil, this is the best time to clean it, if is really bad that can be the reason of relay failure.

I removed the screws on top of the refrigerator and the freezer door, lifted the fresh food door off bottom hinge laid it on a covered floor, used a pair of wire cutters to cut old gasket. then pulled the gasket straight out all the way around. then I started on one corner using a putty knife to push the new gasket under plastic trim, then put gasket on opposite corner at top of door then did the same with other two corners, then used putty knife to go all the way around sliding gasket under trim. was easy.

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna

took shelf off of freezer, took ice cube maker out, took back panel off changed defrost thermostat.then re-assembled.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.