E23BC78IPSD Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

Removed screws holding unit and removed unit. Removed switch from connectors in unit. Replaced unit without switch. On day switch arrived (delivery was prompt) my wife replaced switch by attaching the two connectors and slipping into unit without having to remove entire unit. How easy was that!!!

First: I could not watch any videos. Big downer. Read the reviews and read a post about “three screws”.
Opened the freezer and emptied everything in it.
Remove the bin.
Two screws are on the left side. They go into the side wall.
Here’s where things get weird. The plastic “box” holds the “ice making assembly”. That box is attached by FOUR slots. You will need to remove the wire rack below the frame. There’s a plastic spacer on the left side with a slot on it. You can pull it of with your fingers when you rotate it. Slide the rack to the left and pull down the rack from the RIGHT side holes. You have move the box toward you about a inch, then it drops down.
Now, there is a electrical connection from the box to the rear of the refrigerator wall. You need a small screwdriver to lift the tab on the TOP of the connector to release it. Once that is done, slide the box forward and put it in the sink.
While all this is happening, the freezer is thawing out.
Once you remove the box, you will get error codes on the digital display. This is a good thing.
There are two “square head’” screws that you have to remove to separate the TWO parts that make the box. Slide the outer trim towards you.
The icemaker assembly slides into four slots. You put the new wires in the same place as the one you removed.
Put everything back together the opposite of the removal.
Now for the secret.
All that food you removed? Put it back in until you can slide the box into place.
Then you plug the connector in. The box should be sitting on the food.
THIS IS THE SECRET.
The ice maker has two options. Cubed or Crushed.
There are two components that make them happen. On the left side there is a slot with a gray lever the moves up an down. There is an piece of aluminum on the right side the drives the screw in the box.
Rotate the screw drive to 45 degrees.
THIS IS THE SECRET.
On the left side of the box is a rod that is spring loaded and has a bent end.
It’s about “timing”.
Find a piece of “kite string”. I used the string from the yellow energy tag that came with the fridge.
The box is sitting on the frozen food. The wire in the back is connected.
Loop the string around the lever AND PULL UP.
Slide the whole thing into place using the slots.
When it’s in place, let go of the string.
Put the two screws back in.

FINAL.
You have to PRESS AND HOLD the IceMaker button to reset. You’ll get ice cubes in a couple of hours. Through the first 24 hrs away.
You’re welcom.

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

Replace gasket

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

The instructions that were provided were perfect. Easy step by step. Entire installation took only 15 minutes

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

Remove old gasket by pulling it away from the frame. Work all the way around the gasket till it is entirely separate from the door. Remove the old gasket by slipping it over the door. Note the orientation of the new gasket will have the small bead towards the door - slip the new gasket over the door so that it is in the inside of the freezer door. Press the small bead into the slot in the door. Work all the way around, pressing the bead in with your fingers. When it's all secure, close the door and check for no gaps. Takes 5 minutes and no tools - very easy. Make sure you order the correct COLOR of gasket - it comes in black and white. The black looks best on stainless steel door.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.