E23BC78IPSJA Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Googled it on Youtube - unplugged the fridge, used a paint scraper to loosen the old light switch, unplugged it from the electrical source, connected the new switch, replaced the whole unit into the proper location and pushed it firmly into place.

After unplugging the fridge, I took a small flat headed screwdriver and carefully pried off the light switch from the inside, right side of the refrigerator. I disconnected the 2 wires from the switch and replaced it with the new switch and pushed it back into the frame of the fridge. Done !! Very very easy !! Thank you

slide old filter out and insert new one

We had someone to come and look at it and we were told it was the solenoid valve. The repairman unstuck it for us and said when it does it again, he would have to order the part. We took it upon ourselves to order the part and DIY. We replaced the part that we were told was the problem and "guess what" it's still not fixed. It's still shooting out crushed ice. Will have to call repair guy back out here to see what we did wrong.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

After sending PartSelect the info to their troubleshooting dept. about my ice maker, they recommended replacing the ice solenoid. I did so at a cost of $102. No change, turned out replacing the ice maker(did not purchase from PartsSelect) was the issue and works fine now.

So wasted $102. FYI the part took 6 days to arrive.

I removed the defective water valve. All wiring and tubing connectios were color coded.
It connected the water tubes and electric plugs to new water valve.
The water dispenser worked perfectly after I reconnected everything.

Used a flat head screwdriver to pop out the old switch, removed the contacts and placed on the new switch, popped the switch back in. Done in about 2 minutes.

Removed exterior housing, sliding old unit forward to release. New unit went in easily. Caution wires don't get pinched.

Followed video on YouTube and instructions in your website.

Removed screw on Mullion so that the replacement hinge can slide onto the small plastic bracket on the door. Slid the mullion on the hinges and screwed in muliion (1 screw).

Secured bracket. Attached electrical contact to the compressor. Secured inverter to bracket.
Problem: the electrical contact cords are very short, therefore it wa difficult to reach the compressor. Even after connecting to the compressor, the cords are under stress.
However, the refrigerator is working fine.

Following previous installation instructions was very useful. Would add that the nut driver needs to be 1/4 in and to release the water lines from the valve body, simply squeeze the blue ring toward the valve and pull on the water lines at the same time. Simple fix!

I read other suggestions trying isolate auger motor shaft with pliers while turning bar drive. needle nose pliers could hold the shaft. bar drive just would spin. so took the whole ice box assembly out
(only 2 screws) and with a metal cutting blade used the sawzall to cut along the shaft. freed it up enough to then unscrew it from that point. Left handed threads by the way.

I REMOVED THE OLD GASKET BEING VERY CAREFUL TO SEE EXACTLY HOW IT CAME OFF. I INSERTED THE LOCKING INSERT INTO THE TRACK IN THE DOOR WHICH DID NOT FIT AS THE OLD ONE DID. AFTER USING TREMENDOUS FORCE WITH MULTIPLE TOOLS I DID MANAGE TO GET THE TOP AND THE SIDES TO LOCK INTO PLACE AND EVENTUALLY HOLD. THE BOTTOM OF THE GASKET DID NOT HOLD SO I USED CLEAR CAULK AND TAPE TO HOLD THE GASKET IN UNTIL THE CAULK CURED. AFTER THE CAULK CURED THE GASKET HAS, SO FAR, REMAINED TIGHT.