E23CS78GPS0 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

Took off Door on Refr. and unscrewed Doorstop,
removed doorstop with broken Bearing and replaced with new Parts. Took about 20 Minutes
including reattaching Door. A 10 year old can do it.

I ordered a new shelf and I put in, less than minute

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

After taking the complete motor, tray, icemaker, etc out and finding no problem, I then finally checked for power at the connector at the top of the icemaker. I concluded that there was no pwoer going to the motor. I then removed the circiut board and found the relay for the auger was not working. Putting the new board in took 10-15 min. and then the auger started to work.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

The repair was just as easy as ordering the part which arrived on day three after I ordered it! I had already cleaned up the broken glass insert, so all I had to do was unpack and lay the new shelf in. Took less than a minute!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.