EW26SS70IB1 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

very easy to install...shipping was really fast...i would order to this website again....

I replaced the water valve, but it still did not fix the problem.The old water valve I took out I'm assuming worked fine, I think the real problem is ice building up in pipe or some other blockage.

Parts select was very fast in shipping, very positive experience with them.
I will definitely purchase again from this site.

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

First I loosened the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...re-installed the new icemaker first attaching the wires and then fitting over the screw holders and tightened the screws. That was it!

Followed instructions from others on the blog. Shut off water and electricity to the refrigerator. Removed the cardboard plate. Removed the old water valve. Cut the compression valves off and inserted the tubes into the new water valve. Attached the water valve bracket to the fridge. Tightened copper water supply.Turned on the water - no leaks. Plugged the fridge in. Tried the water and ice in the door. No leaks - everything worked perfectly. THANK YOU PARTS SELECT!

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.

removed rear cover, removed screws, diconnected water line connections, cut off old water line connection, installed new compression water line connection, replace screws in water line housing, replace rear cover.

worked fine

I removed the Fresh Zone drawers from the refrigerator as well as the broken clip slide. I snapped the new clip-slide in place and checked drawer slide function. Then, I put the drawers back into the fridge. Voila! In less than 15 minutes the repair was fixed without any tools.

placed filter in sideways

Pulling the old seal was the easy part. The problem became dificult when I opened the seal package. Either Part Select or UPS had folded the seal in half. Witch caused the wire inside the seal to become crimped up. I used a pair of pliers "carefully" to straighten the wire as best I could. Luckly it worked, after pressing it firmly all the way aroud about 5 or 6 times. I'll still keep an eye on it for the next couple of weeks.

The parts supplied were made to fit. The hardest part was getting the original broken tabs out of the internal walls of the fridge with out damaging the internal insulation. I punched the center locking pin through completely, dug out the broken tabs and then reached into the hole with a dental pick and pulled out the center pin. The new parts fit perfectly and with a plastic mallet, tapped the new locking pin into place.

loosen 2 screws
unplug connector
remove
replug
replace
tighten 2 screws
done