E23CS78HPS2 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.

I shut off the water supply and removed the 4 screws from the cardboard back revealing the water valve. I removed the 2 screws which attach the valve to the refrigerator and removed the water valve. Once out it was a snap to unplug the electrical leads and unscrewed the water lines, Insalling the new part was a matter of reversing the above procedure. Everything is color coded which made this replacement extrememly simple.

I will definitely use you guys in the future. The ordering process was great and delivery time was ultra quick!
Thanks for an easy part replacement and simple install.

- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.

First removed the drip tray with a firm tug, Then removed the 2 screws to remove the trim, had to remove the board to get get to the connector. (there is a clip that holds the wire tight) connected the new ribbon cable and secured it with the clip, screwed the board back in and pushed in the other end of the cable. and screwed the trim back and the drip tray. surprisingly Very easy to do.

Removed the trim screw on top of the door then removed the two hinge bracket bolts. lifted the door
off placed on the table. Remove the two screws on
holding the bearing bracket on the bottom of the door.
removed the bearing and replace with the new one.
Reinstalled in reverse order.

Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.

Simply slid glass into frame & it fit perfectly.

The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.

First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .

The process:
Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.