EI23BC56IB4 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

After unplugging the fridge, I took a small flat headed screwdriver and carefully pried off the light switch from the inside, right side of the refrigerator. I disconnected the 2 wires from the switch and replaced it with the new switch and pushed it back into the frame of the fridge. Done !! Very very easy !! Thank you

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.

If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.

In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.

Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.

Hope this helps someone. :)

Did not repair, sensor was not located where you said, wrong sensor was sent to me, can't return oe exchange it COSTERMER SERVICE WILL NOT ANSWER MY EMAILS.

I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

DID IT JUST LIKE THE VIDEO SHOWED. UNHOOKED ELECTRICS, CUT TUBING, HOOKED UP ELECTRICS THEN TUBES TO NEW PART. PIECE OF CAKE.

slide old filter out and insert new one

Remove the freezer drawer by unscrewing the two 12mm screws on both sides of the drawer.
Lift the drawer up out of the slots the frame and away.
Lay the drawer on a padded surface to protect the drawer cover finish.
Pull the old gasket out of the drawer and discard.
Position the new gasket around the edge of the drawer. Starting at one corner press the gasket into the slot in the drawer edge. Continue working the gasket until you return to the starting point.
Inspect the gasket to ensure it is seated in the slot completely.
Return the drawer to the refrigerator, placing the lugs on the drawer into the slots of the frame and insert the screws to their original position and tighten securely.
Inspect the drawer for proper level/sealing in the freezer drawer position. Adjust as necessary.

Lift broken bin out and place new bin in place push down to make secure fit.

I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in place.

Gasket is held in place by an extrusion on the back side. Simply remove the old gasket and press the new gasket's extrusion into the track on the door.

Remove ice maker, completely disassemble, being careful with the styrofoam around housing. This is a very weak part and takes much load from auger. Use a white, high strength tape to bind around the housing with, (very important) or you'll be doing this again as it is a failure point.

Undo a few bolts unplug power and unhook water lines then recut all lines and push in to new value

Write down where tubing goes, wiring is color coded.

Straight forward repair. Remove the four screws holding cardboard back. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve. Unscrew the water lines and unplug the electrical connections. I would caution that it would be wise to either take a couple photos or write down the order of connection. Even though it is somewhat color coded and the water lines are different sizes, a photo removes any confusion. My old valve had threaded connections using brass nuts and ferrules. The new valve has push in connections so you need to cut the ferrules off.. When cutting off the tubing, be sure to cut square. An angled or "squished" cut will leak when pushed into the fitting. Attach the valve to the refrigerator with 2 screws and replace the cardboard back and you're finished. While you have the back off is a good time to clean the coils. I left my fridge out and back off for a couple of ice making cycles so I could check for leaks (how I know the tubing needs to be cut very square). All in all, a very easy fix.