EI23CS55GB7 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched YouTube video. Very easy. Used my cell phone camera in ‘selfie’ mode propped up in the upper right hand corner of freezer to see the 2 hidden screws.

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

I had removed the housing that the drum was in and taken the screws out to get to the broken drum. I removed it there was a set of 6 blades that crushed the ice that had to go back on the same order when I removed these I put them on a piece of wire in the order they came off (so I would get them back I the correct order). Then I reversed the order and reassembled it in the opposite direction . It was fairly easy to do. I'm a 68 year old disabled woman so if I could do it I'm sure you could to. Good luck. It cost me $14.00 if I had bought the whole assembly it would have been $150.00. So it was well worth my time and effort.

We followed the video instructions and it went fairly smooth. After turning off the water at the street we found that the faucet at the wall had it's own "on/off" valve. When finished, we turned on the power and heard the gears going through their revolutions, but no ice was made. We waited 24 hours and still no ice. I removed the cover on the ice maker and adjusted the amount of water to see if that was malfunctioning. Still no ice was created. Waited another 24 hours - nothing. Waited another 24 hours (the site said that sometimes the ice maker would take time to reset itself) - nothing. Then on the fourth day after changing out the triple water valve we heard water being dispensed and later that day it put out the first ice in weeks. Another hour later another batch of ice cubes were ready and deposited into the bin. Since that time, we have had a full bin. I moved the set screw back to it's original setting because a little too much water was being delivered. The cubes weren't separating to individual cubes. That cleared up the problem. This was easily completed - we recommend others do their own work. Just be patient for the system to reset itself.

I followed the video tutorial published here. The step I altered was setting the shrink wrap; I did not have a heat gun to safely shrink it, so I folded it tightly onto itself and wrapped it in electrical tape. No more frost buildup.

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

I ordered a new shelf and I put in, less than minute

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.