E23CS78HPS0 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

I had to remove the face cover to gain access to the ribbon harness, also had to remove the push pads The ribbon is a delicate item so care had to be taken not to bend the ends. The ribbon can fit either side so getting it in place to make contact was kind of tricky. After the ribbon was in, it just a matter of putting things back together. Dispenser is fixed at a minimum cost, ribbon was shipped within 2 days which was great. Thanks to Part Select for easy to find on the net, had a complete diagram of the refrigerator ice/water dispenser so finding the parts needed was simple. Doug

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

After entering the model/serial number of my appliance, the PartSelect website helped me easily find the parts I needed with clear exploded diagrams of my particular model. Ordering was quick and painless. I ordered the parts on a Sunday and they arrived on my doorstep on Wednesday. Exact fit, easy swap out of old and new parts and the job was done in 10 minutes. When the shelf broke on a 6 year old refrigerator, I figured it would be a huge pain to get it replaced. Not so at all. Easy, intuitive and fast. PartSelect gets a big thumbs up in my book!

I removed the filter bypass from the box. I opened the refrigerator door. I put the filter bypass in the space where the filter was located. I closed the refrigerator door. I opened the freezer door. I turned on the ice maker. It worked.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

The line for the water to the door was too short to install. Lacked about 4-6”Ice maker line was fine.

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

Repair man wanted a 130.00 service charge plus parts , With the help of YouTube we did the repairs inhouse , couldn't believe it was that easy. Refrigerator is working like a new one ,our maintenance crew has ice cubes were all happy !

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Replaced bad parts with new parts it went easy