E32AR75GTT0 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

Just push the button on the top right hand and pull the filter out; then proceed to instal the new one pushing it in place. It's really an easy operation!!

This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.

Took off cover, unplugged wires, removed old motor, mounted new motor, remounted new motor and replaced cover.

Now need a new control board for same model.

Loosened the screws all around the door. easier if you take the door off the unit and lay it on a table. Cover the table with a blanket to protect the door finish. Old gasket just pulls loose. Press the raised bead on the new gasket under the plastic strip. Corners were the most difficult. Retighten the the screws and rehang the door. It took some practice to get the bead under the plastic strip.

We are not handy, we had an appliance repair person install the gasket.

The original part broke. The plastic attachment end of the part snapped off. The new part was easy to attach.

Easy

Following previous installation instructions was very useful. Would add that the nut driver needs to be 1/4 in and to release the water lines from the valve body, simply squeeze the blue ring toward the valve and pull on the water lines at the same time. Simple fix!

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

Pushed the "release button" and took out old filter. Pushed the new filter in place until it 'snapped in place.' Then ran the 'water' until it stopped spitting out air.

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

I was able to take away the trim covering the parts with a nutdriver. The base was disconnected using a phillips head screwdriver. The only real issue was how to disconnect the plastic water lines from the old base and connect them to the new one. I finally realized I just had to cut the lines where they entered the filter base because they would not pull out. I then finally understood that to install them into the new base I just had to push them in securely. The lines were long enough to do this but probably would not be long enough to install another filter base. In that event I do not know what all would have to be done. The leak had been going on for years (it only leaked when water was running to the ice machine or water dispenser). It is great having it repaired and we hope to get quite a few more years out of this old fridge.

I followed previous directions, and would recommend them! Briefly, I removed the plastic covers for the water filter, water tubes, temperature control switches to allow removal using a screwdriver and a nutdriver(I think)to remove the hexagonal screws. I also removed the water filter before beginning. I pressed the blue thingies in the back towards the base to remove the water supply lines. It was a bit tricky, and took the bulk of the repair time, but they came lose once enough pressure was applied. I took out the old filter base, put in the new one, attached the water lines, and put back all the covers. Everything comes apart very easily, and went back together very easily. A simple repair that had us back in ice and filtered water within an hour!