EF36BNNFSS11 Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.

YouTube helped ,diagnosed problem ,found defective part removed and replaced with new part.
Is a little job on your knees

Received gasket. Checked color and size. Because this unit is 33 inches wide one door is 3 inches narrower than the other. Removed shelves from door to provide more room to work. Took 15 seconds to pull out old seal and 1 minute to install the new one. Checked to make sure center sealing flap were on the center side of door. Started in upper corners, worked my way around the perimeter pressing in in with my fingers.
Took longer to R&R and wash shelves than to replace door seal.
VERY EASY

Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Snapped in new part

Easily pulled out the gaskets off the refrigerator doors and replaced them with the new ones. The installation video was also a big help in the process.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

removed the freezer door, removed the two shelves and removed three screws from the icemaker, unplugged the wiring harnest. Installed the new icemaker in reverse procedure.

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Loosen the 2 mounting screws on the top about 2 turns; take the one mounting screw on the bottom all of the way out. The top part of the ice maker drops down on the loose top screws. That holds the ice maker while installing the bottom screw. No need to shut off water to the ice maker, just shut off electricity to refrigerator.

I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.