EF42DBSS Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.

I unplugged the refrigerator
Opened the freezer door
Opened the ice maker door so that I could easily get to the emitter and receiver
I used a phillips head screw driver to remove 3 screws from the emitter plate and 3 screws from the receiver plate
I unplugged the faulty circuit boards--this took some tugging
I firmly plugged in the new circuit boards and replaced the screws
I waited about 30 minutes and the ice maker began making ice again

Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.

hardest part was getting up the nerve to pull front cover because it is plastic afraid i would brake it pull from bottom and lift up one screw holds old door inplace uplug electric new door doesn't have electric that it.

Light was blinking on the Electronic Control Boards. Ordered replacement (emitter and receiver)and installed, and now it's working.
Some note: 1 year ago, the board started to blinks (meaning it's bad) but it was still making ice. This gave me a false error when it really failed, took the risk and ordered the replacement parts and all is well now.

One more thing to pay attention to , and it may only be on my model of refrigerator, but the wires harness that connect to the receiver board (big board) have large and stiff wire. With limited space where the board and the wire are seat at, it put lots of pressure on the pressure on the board's connector. This pressure, over time, will cause the right angle connector's solders to crack and may be a contributor to the failure. If you're installing the new board, try to re-inforce the connector with some rubber heat glue and also relieve pressure from the connector's end, which I hope will prolong your board.

worked great parts were perfect!

Repairing a refrigerator is inimidating to say the least. Our ice maker has broke twice in the two years that we have owned it. The first time we had a service repair faciliting come out and they replaced it for about $200. The second time I had no idea what the problem was until I came to this repair forum. I soon realized that the electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Received the part two days after ordering and it took all of about 5 minutes to unscrew the old boards, pop them out, and put in the new ones.

Love your website and the money that you saved me!!! Thanks a million!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

power off, 3 phillips head screws on either side of freezer. unplg each board, plug new ones in completely. ( cannot mix them up, size difference) replace screws and enjoy ice cold beverages once again!!!!!!!!!

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.