CB19G7W13 Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- WADE from PILOT MTN, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
COILS WAS ICING ON REFRIGRATOR SOLID ICED FOUND ENTIRE COILS
CHECK DEFROST THERMOSTAT WITH VOLT OHM METER AND FOUND THERMOSTAT BAD ALSO OHMED OUT HEATER AND HEATER CHECKED OK INSTALLED HEAT SRINK CONNECTORS ON NEW DEFROST THERMOSTAT PUT SYSTEM BACK INTO O
PRATION ALSO CHANGED WATER FILTER ON REFERGRATOR
SYSTEM WORKING OK AND NO ICING OF COILS THANKS WADE BOYLES
PRATION ALSO CHANGED WATER FILTER ON REFERGRATOR
SYSTEM WORKING OK AND NO ICING OF COILS THANKS WADE BOYLES
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- Customer:
- Carl from EAST LYME, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Refrigerator would not cool, while the freezer kept food frozen and the ice maker worked fine. Also, noticed frost build up at the rear of the freezer compartment
First, turned off the circuit breaker. Then: 1. Removed all food, , wire sliding baskets, and the ice bin.
2. Removed ice maker by removing the electrical connector from the socket in the rear panel, removed the single bottom screw with a 1/4” nut driver, loosened the 2 top screws with a 1/4” nut driver, and lifting the unit up and off the 2 loosened screws.
3. Removed the freezer door by loosening the 4 screws( 2 on each side) with a 1/4” nut driver and then lifting the door face off the loosened screws.
4. The next task is to remove the panel at the rear of the freezer compartment: use a flat blade screw driver to compress the side clips that hold the ice maker electrical socket, pushing it into the space behind the rear panel, then removing the rear plastic cover in the center of the rear panel, and finally removing the thermistor cover on the right rear upper corner of the rear panel( separate the thermistor from this piece, threading it through the slot in the top of the plastic cover.
Now, the rear panel can be removed by removing the 4 1/4”” hex head screws with the nut driver and gently easing the panel from its position.
5. Now comes the hard part: the defrost thermostat and most of the surrounding “plumbing” was encased in ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice, which created an overflow of water drawing into the collection pan; get ready to mop up this water.
6. With ALL the ice melted( this took over an hour), I simply cut the 2 wires, stripped the feed ends, removed the defective unit, clipped the new thermostat to the copper tube where the old unit was clipped, cut excess wire/stripped the new wires and used 2 orange wire nuts to connect each wire.
Now all the parts and pieces can be reinstalled in the reverse order
2. Removed ice maker by removing the electrical connector from the socket in the rear panel, removed the single bottom screw with a 1/4” nut driver, loosened the 2 top screws with a 1/4” nut driver, and lifting the unit up and off the 2 loosened screws.
3. Removed the freezer door by loosening the 4 screws( 2 on each side) with a 1/4” nut driver and then lifting the door face off the loosened screws.
4. The next task is to remove the panel at the rear of the freezer compartment: use a flat blade screw driver to compress the side clips that hold the ice maker electrical socket, pushing it into the space behind the rear panel, then removing the rear plastic cover in the center of the rear panel, and finally removing the thermistor cover on the right rear upper corner of the rear panel( separate the thermistor from this piece, threading it through the slot in the top of the plastic cover.
Now, the rear panel can be removed by removing the 4 1/4”” hex head screws with the nut driver and gently easing the panel from its position.
5. Now comes the hard part: the defrost thermostat and most of the surrounding “plumbing” was encased in ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice, which created an overflow of water drawing into the collection pan; get ready to mop up this water.
6. With ALL the ice melted( this took over an hour), I simply cut the 2 wires, stripped the feed ends, removed the defective unit, clipped the new thermostat to the copper tube where the old unit was clipped, cut excess wire/stripped the new wires and used 2 orange wire nuts to connect each wire.
Now all the parts and pieces can be reinstalled in the reverse order
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- Customer:
- SCOTT from ELECTRIC CITY, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Freezer would not defrost, refrigerator was warm, no airflow into fridge
Info on your site allowed me to determine the most likely cause of the problem, defrost thermostat, and that fixed it. Good installation instructions on the site too. Part was super easy to install. Hardest part was removing the snap-in/screwed-in plastic parts that held the sliding baskets and back panel in place. Didn't break any.....Thank You!
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- Customer:
- Ronald from WESTERVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10120018
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken black plastic spring mechanism inside freezer rail
Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from RICHTON, MS
- Parts Used:
- W11613295
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Refrigerator would cool for a very short period of time. Then the compressor would shutdown via internal thermal overload or high head pressure. This was caused by the lack of airflow across the condenser coils and compressor.
(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed
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- Customer:
- Richard from SAN FRANCISCO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The refrigerator compartment kept getting warm.
The vents at the back of the freezer were constantly getting packed with ice. A repairman failed to spot the problem. I used Partselect's web site to do my own analysis and determined that it was the defrost thermostat.
I followed the web site's instructions, which were exceptionally good. Behind the rear wall of the freezer was a lot of ice on the cooling fins and heavily encrusted over the old thermostat. (It was not really difficult, but I am in my 70s and no longer do things like this on my own.)
After replacing the part, I checked the ohms of the old part and found it to be faulty. Since then, the refrigerator has been working great. I wish I had started here. The repairman I had hired replaced the "control board" at significant expense. I doubt very much that anything was wrong with the old control board.
Many thanks to Partselect for an exceptionally helpful web site.
I followed the web site's instructions, which were exceptionally good. Behind the rear wall of the freezer was a lot of ice on the cooling fins and heavily encrusted over the old thermostat. (It was not really difficult, but I am in my 70s and no longer do things like this on my own.)
After replacing the part, I checked the ohms of the old part and found it to be faulty. Since then, the refrigerator has been working great. I wish I had started here. The repairman I had hired replaced the "control board" at significant expense. I doubt very much that anything was wrong with the old control board.
Many thanks to Partselect for an exceptionally helpful web site.
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- Customer:
- Wayne from PENNINGTON, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10128551
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Thought motor was bad freezer cold fridge hot
Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
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- Customer:
- Sung-Su from BISMARCK, ND
- Parts Used:
- W11396033
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broke the Rocker Switch in Fridge side
Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.
But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.
Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.
But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.
Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.
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- Customer:
- Terry from WARMINSTER, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11396033
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken light switch
Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
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- Customer:
- Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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- Customer:
- Judy from Newport News, VA
- Parts Used:
- 4396418
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
ice maker quit working
removed 3 screws.disconnected power connection.removed old ice maker,put new one in.tightened 3 screws.reconnected power plug turned unit on.now makes great ice.
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- Customer:
- Dave from Manchester Center, VT
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Refrigerator light would not stay on
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.
reassembled the pieces.
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- Customer:
- Christina from Orange, CT
- Parts Used:
- WPW10671238
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the rail to hold the crisper drawers broke
I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.
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- Customer:
- Estel from Luling, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP67003638
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
RH door closure broke
Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.
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- Customer:
- Jane from Albuquerque, NM
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
lights wouldn't come on/work in refrigerator
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
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