CS25B7DB Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

First I unplugged the refrigerator. Next item was the ice-maker; remove (3) screws and unplug it from the back wall. Third task is remove the (4) screws that attach the back wall of the freezer compartment. Lift the wall up enough to dislodge the center cooling shaft that the fan rides in and remove the rear wall. The last item is the fan motor which is attached to the freezer wall by (2) screws and (3) wires which are easily removed. Change out the motor and reassemble freezer compartment .

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

replaced shelf

I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.

Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and have to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.
1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.
2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the
Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.
3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided.
4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment.
Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!
Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.
Rodolfo Julao-S.San Francisco, CA

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

removed the front panel on freezer door ,removed and disconnected panel ,removed panel containing solenoid,replaced with new solenoid. replaced all parts. works perfect..

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

replaced water valve, Still not working.

Our 20+ year old Maytag refrigerator suddenly started dispensing water one day without anyone near the refrigerator. Thankfully, my wife was nearby; my son temporarily solved the problem by shutting off water to the house. The ice dispenser unit has a "Lock" switch which turns off power to the ice & water dispenser. With the switch in the "lock" position, we were able to continue using the refrigerator (and turn the water back on) until I was able to get a replacement part.

The biggest hurdle that I encountered was removing the trim; I spent perhaps an hour and a half trying to figure it out. In the end it turned out to be easy and would have been perhaps half an hour job total had I known the trick. So... to remove the trim on a Maytag RSW2400, you remove a single Phillips head screw on the bottom of the trim. The trim then slides to the left and can be removed.

The next mistake I made was removing the entire dispenser unit. Instead, if you look closely, there are screws which may be used to disassemble part of it, leaving the ice/water dispenser housing mounted to the refrigerator door. This provides access to the ice/water actuator switch. Perform this disassembly and access to the switch becomes obvious.

The switch is held in place with a single Phillips screw. Make sure that you've disconnected the power to the fridge well before this point because, AFAICT, 120VAC flows through this switch! The switch that I replaced didn't appear to be in bad shape and, once removed, the switch seemed to work correctly when I tested it with an ohmmeter. I replaced it anyway.

Reassembly was straightforward and easy. Better still, ice and water are now dispensed correctly again.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Pull refrigerator out from wall to shut off water and power. Remove ice bin, pulling front down then out. Remove screw at bottom of icemaker, then pull down to release two clips, Pull out a couple inches to get hand behind icemaker to release wiring harness connector. (squeeze top and bottom to release clips). Remove unit. Remove wiring harness and wire bail from old unit and install on new unit. Reverse steps to install new unit. Make sure ice bin is fully inserted, or unit will not function.