CS23G5Q Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

After taking advice from the other posts, I removed all contents from the door, removed the screws from the top hinge and then lifted the door off the bottom hinge pin.

While door was lying flat I unscrewed the old natural closer, replaced it with the new one. Swapped out the old lower hinge pin with the new one.

I then had someone help me lift the door back on the hinge pin and fastened the top hinge screws while they held the door in place.

It worked perfectly and was very easy.

I removed the top refrigerator side hinge screws. The door came right off. Slipped in the lower hinge pin.. Unscrewed the natural door closer and replaced. Reinstalled the door. It is unfortunate that these parts are plastic. They wear out way too soon. No, the door is not over weighted. If you have no weight in the door the plastic shelves will hinder the door closing. Putting stuff on the shelves makes them take their proper form.

Replacing the icemaker is pretty simple. Three screws, an electrical connector. Hardest part is getting to the icemaker since the freezer is below the refrigerator.

Removed the hinge cover on top and the 3 screws. Disconnected the electrical connection.
Lifted the door up from lower hinge and laid the down down on the floor. Carefully because there is a water line coming up through the lower hinge cup.
There is a Paraflex water connector so you can disconnect the water line and feed the line up through the cup. Having never seen one, i called, googled, etc. to find out how the connector was to come apart.
No one knew. No one!
I put the door back together and called Maytag only to find out that they do not provide technical service on any of their parts.
I was telling a friend of mine, who is an engineer,
about the dilemma. He came over and said it was a push-pull connector and he took it apart.
After that, I put the new parts in and put the door back on, Replaced the lower plastic hinge cover.
(Open the door first)
After swearing I would never buy another Maytag product, I fixed myself a drink (It was after 6:00 pm)
and relaxed.

Ice maker assembly required disconnection of the wire harness at the back of the freezer and the removal of 3 hex nuts. The assembly did not come with a new wire harness nor the rigid wire attached to the hinge that can be raised to stop production of ice. The wire harness was easy to disconnect from the old assembly by pressing in on a tab. The rigid wire attached to the hinge simply required pulling straight out of the hinge-hole (no need to twist, slide, or perform other contortions...it does require significant force to remove, but it does pull straight out). It was simple to attach it to the new ice assembly. Reinstalled the 3 hex nuts and wire harness plug and was good to go....after waiting several hours! I was worried at first because the unit did not immediately fill with water after I plugged the fridge back into the wall socket. However, after the freezer was cold enough, the water did run and I had my first ice dump within about 3 hours of finishing the installation. We have good ice again, and Partselect has excellent pricing and awesome delivery! I received the unit the day after ordering, and I had only paid the basic shipping! Thanks Partselect! Jeff

Removed the old icemaker and installed the new one. The first one we ordered lasted about 4 weeks and pooped out. Parts Select was very nice and gracefully sent another in two days time. This one has been installed and is working fine...Hope it stays that way.

Thanks...Ron Norwood

This was a very easy repair. Of course start by unplugging the power cord. Take out the lower freezer drawer. Unplug the wiring harness from the ice maker at the rear of the freezer. Undo 3 screws with a 1/4" nut driver. The ice maker will come right out. You don't have to undo any water connections, the feed tube just slides into a guide in the ice maker. Once the ice maker is out, unplug the harness from the old one and snap it into the new one. Same with the cover. Reassemble in reserse order. Plug the power cord back in and wait a couple of hours for the familiar sounds of ice cubes falling into the tray.

Replaced ice maker but now water valve wont work

Replaced ice ice maker using
All of the instructions on the website.
Very easy. A couple of the screws I had
To feel for because I couldn't gety big head
In the freezer far enough to see them.
Very simple and only took about 15 minutes.

to easy to describe, remove 3 screws and a wire plug then install new unite.
Works great
Thanks

Took under 5 minutes. Removed two screws and unplugged the wire bundle from refrigerator. Removed old unit. Put old wire bundle on new unit. Plugged wire bundle back into refrigerator and remounted the new ice maker. Could not have been easier. Watched the video first, it was very helpful.

I made use of instructions for other users, see 'My ice maker has been shedding.....' and they were very helpful. The one problem not covered - the instructions that came with the new icemaker said to 'remove the bearing and inlet from the old icemaker and install in the new icemaker', but gave no instructions for how to accomplish this.

The old inlet has a square opening in the back and a u-shaped knockout in the side. The new one has a round opening in the side and square knockout in the back)

After several attempts to remove them, I gave up and used the new inlet with the knockout removed. I did not attempt to cover the side opening and it worked fine that way - no leaks.

There are basically three screws that hold the unit in place on the inside of the freezer. Removing them is relatively easy, and the unit is replaced with the same three screws. You do have to use the formed metal wire from your old unit, so don't throw it out! You also have to use the wiring harness from your old unit.

, to remove the inlet tube holder/guide gadget thingee: (1) remove the three Phlipscrews from the motor end of the housing. (2) pull the housing straight off the end. (3) remove two Philips screws in deep holes that hold the ice tray onto the motor housing. (4) this frees the ice tray assembly, which you have to pull out, freeing the rotating blades, from which (5) you slide the sxle out of the middle of the inlet-tube thingee, so (6) you can then remove the inlet gadget from the ice tray.

You then reverse these instructions to reassemble with the correct inlet gadget. The tricky part is the front cover that hides the ice-tray from view. That cover has a couple of ears that have to fit into mating holes in the motor housing before you replace the two deep-hole Philips screws that hold the tighten the ice-tray assembly back onto the motor housing.

So it's too bad they don't see the ice-maker assembly with all the knock-outs inplace, so you can knock out the one you want. Other than that, it would have been no more trouble than other people have reported in working in the tight space inside the freezer compartment.

It is the model with the french door. I unplugged it, removed two screws at the bottom of the door, while holding the door from sliding down. Removed the door and put it on its side. Removed one screw that was holding the hinge, removed the hinge and replaced it with the new one. Put the door back on (do not forget to reinstall the shims).
Did the same thing on the other door. After putting the door back on readjusted the height to level the door, using height adjustment screw. Lock the door in place. It now works better then new