WRS3R3EWG Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.

When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.

turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place.
2. Removed and drained all water lines.
3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections.
4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly).
5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings.
6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!

Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.

Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.

it was a no brainer install

I removed the filter casing containing the casing, removed the filter and replaced it with the new filter and screwed the casing in place tightening with the wrench.. It took less than 5 minutes and was the easiest replacement Ive ever done.

Repair was pretty straight forward. The Plastic around the glass cover of the crisper pan all broke where the stud holds it up. Replaced both of the plastic covers.

The broken support stud was a bit of a pain, you have to use a long nose pliers to try and pull the middle stud that locks everything in place. Forcing the entire support stud out will crack the plastic body of the fridge, so you have to truly find a way to get that middle stud out first to lose the clamps. Look at the new one you have and figure out how it works to give you an idea of how you can pull out the broken one.

All in all, was a pretty simple install. More annoying as you have a small space to work in.

To simple to explain. I was very happy with my parts and prompt service,,

Reviewed the video on your website and followed the directions to the letter. Great video

This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order

I pulled out all the screws and from the freezer side and remove the panel, then I located the thermostat snap the old one out and put the new one in.