CRT151LQ3 Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

took out all items off the shelves from frig - followed the instructions on Steve's video
installed 2 new racks replaced all items on the shelves everything worked fine

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.

Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker
Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.

Before buying the part, I watched your video and realized it was extremely simple to remove and replace. Item was to take 7-10 days and I received it in 4. Took longer than 15 minutes because I had to move the fridge forward, get my tools and a vacuum, get a cup of coffee and get to it. Very easy and the video was exactly step by step. It took longer to vacuum all of the dust bunnies than to replace the part.

Honestly, I was in the market to buy a new refrigerator but now I believe I'll wait several more years. Thank you for your support.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

After watching numerous YouTube videos I realized that my problem was either the timer or the thermostat. I purchased both for above $70 total and decided it was worth the gamble to self- repair it instead of buying a new refrigerator for $700 plus taxes and delivery charges. The videos were right on with excellent directions for replacing these 2 products. Only has one problem… the shrink wrap that came with the thermostat is very thick and will NOT shrink with a hairdryer. I hade to run to ACE Hardware to buy a heat gun and more shrink wrap

removed freezer door and installed the new one. This was a pretty easy thing to do, although putting the old handle on the new door was a challenge. No knowing that there is a plastic piece holding the top of the handle i broke the that piece and had to order another one. Mean while the freezer was making alot of frost inside, so that had to be cleaned after the new part came.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch.
Now what?

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.

Figuring out how to remove the cracked door rack was the most complication I had. Once I figured out how to push it up it was easy to remove and then replace it with the new part by just placing it over the nobs and pushing down. No tools needed, just hands.

I used the youtube you provided. It was pretty straight forward, but I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a bit (hex wrench) to remove the hex bolt head style screws. I was only expecting to need phillips or flathead. I managed to remove one with a set of pliers, and the brought that example to the store for size reference when buying the bit to fit my black and decker drill. The rest was easy.

All you do is snap it on