CT15Y5A Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!

figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

Used screwdriver & pliers to remove old brackets. Installed retainer on new brackets and snapped them into place in the refrigerator door.

1. Inserted the plastic bracket into the channels on the side of the front metal piece with the hole plugs facing outward.
2. Lined up the plastic piece with the plugs with the holes on the shelf door.
3. Slid the plastic piece (in its channel) towards the door and into the holes.

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

The firt hard thing was waiting for the part to arrive, but that went quick. The second hardest part was opening the box. Shucks I got a paper cut, should have used a razor but while wife wont let me have sharp objects. Oh, yeah I had to find the hachsaw. I fooled everyone I knew where that was too. Be sure to measure properly, because if you cut too short then you have to stretch the bar. I havn't found any type of bar stretcher that works. It's best if you clamp the metal bar to a 2 X 4 piece of wood in order to steady the metal bar while you cut. You can't cut to well trying to hold the metal bar in your hand. The best part was completeing the job by installing the bars. Finally I have more room in my freezer to store food in the doors. This is my story and I am sticking to it. Have fun.

Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.

Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.

I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:

Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.

Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.

Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.

Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.

Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.

Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.

Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.

Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.

Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.

Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.

Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.

Easy to replace refrigerator bar retaining clip. Just pop it off with flat tip screwdriver, put the new clip in the bar, slide bar in place till the studs on the clip line up with the holes in the door and pop the clip in place.