GFS165/MN02 Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat

On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and now it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.

tested all limit switches with electrical meter to see if they were bad. All switches tested and ohmed out fine. then looked in and saw a hot serfice ignitor and went right to the problem. I have been a furnace man for some time which would give an advantage over the average do it yourselfer. Once I found the bad part and checked resistance across the element, I instantly went on line and ordered the part.the part came in one day and it was the exact part nothing generic, put the part in and was drying clothes again in only two days. Thankyou so much and I hope to get another 5 yrs of drying clothes out of this appliance. Jim P.

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

R/R part, 3 screws reconnect 3 wires. easy.

Pulled the electric plug! Removed the freezer shelf and the rear shelf supports by pulling straight up. Swung rear panel out of the way after taking out the two phillips head screws at the top. Removed the plastic deflector grill to which the motor is attached with a nut driver. Removed motor from grill and disconnected wire prongs (pull off). Attach new motor. Only issue - the ground prong has been moved to the front of the motor so the wire just reaches and has to be gently bent back so the fan blade clears it. Reattach deflector grill. Push on fan blade, but not too far to hit wire. Reassemble the rest in reverse order.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

unpluged refrigerator. removed panel in front of fan. Removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan kit. Replaced the panel in front of fan. Pluged the refrigerator back in. The refrigerator runs a 100 percent better