GFS165/MN10 Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

R/R part, 3 screws reconnect 3 wires. easy.

Remove back cover of freezer compartment; Remove old fan assembly, new fan terminals did not exactly match old one so I had to remove one of the terminals from old fan and attach it to new fan/ then install new assembly and repaced freezer cover

Well I first attemptede the repair wthout following the online instuction's, I dont recomend it.After some 30 minutes wasted trying to fit my hands in and droping the screw a couple of times, I decided it was time to remove the duct that supplies the air thru the lint trap, after that the repair was a breeze

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

Took the old fan out and put the new fan in.

tested all limit switches with electrical meter to see if they were bad. All switches tested and ohmed out fine. then looked in and saw a hot serfice ignitor and went right to the problem. I have been a furnace man for some time which would give an advantage over the average do it yourselfer. Once I found the bad part and checked resistance across the element, I instantly went on line and ordered the part.the part came in one day and it was the exact part nothing generic, put the part in and was drying clothes again in only two days. Thankyou so much and I hope to get another 5 yrs of drying clothes out of this appliance. Jim P.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the harness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!

After finding an almost obsolete part( thanks PartSelect!) the installation was rather easy. Remove the back panel of the freezer and vent with a screwdriver and a nut driver. Disconnect the three wires, green, white and red.Remove motor from mounting and replace with new motor. I had to make a slight adjustment to the ground wire on the new motor that required adjusting the position of the contact-no big deal. The motor fit perfectly. Popped fan on and assembled. 20 minutes max.

The evaporator fan is located in the freezer behind the back wall. If you have the ice maker remove it first then remove the screws on the top of the panel. You will notice the side brackets for the top shelf will make it hard to remve the panal but by slitly binding the center the panal came right out. The fan is held in a bracke tha comes right out. The wire unplu right from the fan so do not try to unplg the seal plug to the left side. Swap the fan with the new one useing the new rubber monts re-connect the wires and reasymble. Put the bottom of the back panal in first then work each side in past the shelf bracket binding the center slightly.