GFS185/MN03 Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.

Talked to local appliance repair tech, who explained how to manually turn timer with a screw driver and listen to the switch go from on to off.

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

With the help of the website I was able to verify that the part I removed (in the area of the clicking sound) was probably the part required for replacement. I ordered it, installed it... IT WORKS (I knew it the moment I plugged in the power cord and heard the compressor kick on). Saved me from buying a new fridge or calling a repairman. I'm a 58 year old woman with no appliance experience. I watched the videos and installed the part without any trouble. Thank you PartSelect for your easy to use website instructions and helpful hints.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.

Was very simple once I found out where the defrost timer was located. I had a friend walking me through trying to find the location on the phone. Not all models have them in the same place. Once the part was located all I had to do was remove the cover, unplug the old one and plug the new one in just the way the old one came off. The black wire was easy to locate on the old and just matched it up. Put the cover back on and plugged it in. It was no time till I started feeling it cool. Checked both top and bottom with thermomater and it was where it should be within 12 hours. I am happy and using it again. Was almost ready to throw it out. Did not know it was so cheap to fix one. Nothing anyone can't handle. If this woman can do it anyone can.

1. Unplug Refrigerator 2. Remove inside back freezer panel. (4 Screws) 3. Remove Duct Cover (3 Screws). 4. Cut electrical connections to fan. 5. Remove Old Fan motor (2 hex screws. 6. Install ground wire (was not one there previously). 7. Put slide-on electrical connectors on remaining 2 motor wires. (Were not any on original unit.) 8. Replace Fan Motor (Don't forget the rubber vibration pads) 9. Reconnect electrical wires. 10. Press on plastic fan blade. 11. Plug in refrigerator to test install. It works. 12 Unplug refrigerator and replace ducting and back panel to freezer. Plug it back in. Voila, Quiet again.

The evaporator fan is located in the freezer behind the back wall. If you have the ice maker remove it first then remove the screws on the top of the panel. You will notice the side brackets for the top shelf will make it hard to remve the panal but by slitly binding the center the panal came right out. The fan is held in a bracke tha comes right out. The wire unplu right from the fan so do not try to unplg the seal plug to the left side. Swap the fan with the new one useing the new rubber monts re-connect the wires and reasymble. Put the bottom of the back panal in first then work each side in past the shelf bracket binding the center slightly.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.