SB520TW-P1308601W Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

took the door off the hinges laided flat and withcordless drill and socket took the gasket off and replaced it with new one

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

remove right door replace lower door cam

Replaced door closer part on hinge. Did not fix problem. Be sure to order mating bushing that goes in the bottom of the door . Part #67004977

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I simply installed the shelf by placing the built in hooks in the door. I called the 800 number to order because I wasn't sure what the part was called. I received superb help from a real person!! The part arrived very quickly; within 2 days. I am very pleased to have the refrigerator intact again.

I watched the online video and followed the directions. The only thing that was not obvious (and this is where the video saved several minutes)was how to remove the upper part from the door. This repair makes the door seals much more effective and should reduce the compressor run time. I have to compliment you on your prices and speed in getting the parts to me...great service!

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

The DIY video was very handy and precise to every visual detail needed for anyone to do their very own repair. It doesn't get any better than that.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.