SR520TW-P1310101W Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed top hinge cover and socketed out hinge nuts. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Socketed out broken bottom cam and replaced with new. Reset door with someone lifting and the other guiding. Reattached top hinge and cover. Voila.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

removed door.examined problem,. installed part. super easy

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

More than anything else the service that has been provided here is second to none. In the futher if parts are needed I'll stop by and see you again.

I simply went to PartSelect and ordered a new kick-plate from the illustrated parts catalog. A few days later it arrived via FedEx and was easily installed within about five minutes. The clips that hold the part to the front of the refrigerator, push on over plastic tabs on the back of the kick-plate. They were packaged separately and at first were very tight and uncooperative. I placed a small socket over the end of the tab and gently tapped each clip it into place with a small hammer. One word of caution, the metal clips are very sharp. It was only after I finished the installation did I notice that I had apparently cut my index finger during the process. Nothing serious, but probably avoidable had I been more aware of the sharp edges.

Removed the broken grille kickplate. (Just pulls right off) Tried to put the new clips on the new grill kickplate. Didn't want to go on without alot of force. Didn't want to crack the new part. So...I heated up the metal clips and placed them (used pliers-too hot to handle) on the place that held the clips and they slid right on and believe me...they won't come off either. Put the grille kickplate on the bottom section of the refrigerator and snapped right on.
Everything looks good.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!