GB2026PEKB3 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

had to remove shelving, crisper's, then unscrewed end cap. lifted it off set pin. and reversed for reinstallation. reefer door is reversed which makes it prone to close on crisper if not fully closed

First I removed the pantry shelf and all the shelving on the bottom half of the fridge. I used the nut driver to remove the RH pantry end cap. Very easy. I took a picture with my digital camera to make sure that I remembered how the assembly looked when puttin git back together. Very easy to do. Common sense repair.

With 2 babies and a chaotic household, i failed to double-check the measurements before I ordered the part. No fault of partselect, just user error ;-) I had to return the part bc i ordered the wrong size. Lesson learned, take my time and make sure it's done right the first time. The part fit in perfectly.
I used the search feature on the left side of the website to find the part, since the deli drawer wasn't in the parts diagrams given. The second time, customer service helped me find the part since the correct part wasn't on the website initially.
The deli drawer for this model is in the perfect place to have something dropped on it time and time again. I'm surprised you don't get more requests for this part to be replaced. It's bad design for Maytag to make it out of thin plastic.
Anyway, thanks so much for your patience in dealing with this frenzied mom! :-)

No tools needed. Snapped right into place, easy as could be.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

Actually shouldn't you have included installation instructions with the product?
I had to search for installation instructions on Utube or the job would have ended in another cracked crisper frame.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

I am not handy; but the repair was really not difficult. I removed three screws that held the end cap. I removed the slide and the tempature control. Next, I assembled the slide and tempature control - a bit of time to figure out how it worked. Once that was done, I re-attached the end cap with three screws. Pretty easy, and my wife is happpy. BTW, the part arrived prompty and in great shape. I am very happy!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

1. Removed both crisper drawers. 2. Removed glass 3. Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws securing guide rail. 4. 1/4" nut driver to remove the 3 screws holding the End Cap than removed and replaced with new one. Done.

I had put off dealing with this repair thinking it would be too complicated and expensive. Was I fooled! I removed the vegetable drawers, shelf and pantry drawer. Then I removed two small bolts using a socket and power drill (very carefully). The entire piece just came right out. There's a small screw holding the air regulator onto the back wall of the refrigerator. This is all connected to the pantry cap, so it has to be removed as well. Once both pieces were out, I just carefully separated the air flow regulator from the borken end cap, attached the new piece, and then bolted/screwed everything back into place. Very easy and inexpensive!