GB2026LEKS4 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

Actually shouldn't you have included installation instructions with the product?
I had to search for installation instructions on Utube or the job would have ended in another cracked crisper frame.

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I am not handy; but the repair was really not difficult. I removed three screws that held the end cap. I removed the slide and the tempature control. Next, I assembled the slide and tempature control - a bit of time to figure out how it worked. Once that was done, I re-attached the end cap with three screws. Pretty easy, and my wife is happpy. BTW, the part arrived prompty and in great shape. I am very happy!

Removed the drawer and shelf above to get access to drawer slide. Removed slide with socket wrench. Also need to remove, then reinstall the arm that is attached to right side end cap that adjusts the temperature flow into the pantry drawer. Reattaching it was not obvious so it took awhile to figure out how it fit. Written instructions would have helped. The part did not come with anything.
This is the second end cap that has required replacing. The first was on the left so did not involve the temperature adjustment arm.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed screws from the broken end cap and removed it. Installed the existing internal parts in the new end cap and reinstalled the screws. Very easy and the exploded diagrams on your site made it a very simple repair.

The glide was very easy to put on; however it is easiest to put in the front screw first, due to the thickness of the glide. Pretty easy!

1. Removed both crisper drawers. 2. Removed glass 3. Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws securing guide rail. 4. 1/4" nut driver to remove the 3 screws holding the End Cap than removed and replaced with new one. Done.

I did it quickly since this was the second time it broke. For easier access, remove the glass shelf above the drawer and the two plastic strips that hold it in place. Remove the two screws (yes, there are three screw holes on each side, but there are screws in only the front and center positions; probably to save money on screws) with either a flathead screwdriver or a socket wrench, which works better. There are two tabs on the end cap that slide into slots in the back of the refrigerator. There is also a plastic retainer on the side of the refrigerator in the front that attaches to the end cap. Gently lift up the front of the end cap and pull forward to remove it. Then unscrew and remove the metal slide bars and install them on the new end cap. Then do everything in the reverse order. Fit the two tabs into the slots in the back of the fridge, then position the fitting over the plastic retainer on the side of the fridge, and gently push back and down. Then screw the end cap back in place. Repplace the two strips for the glass shelf and then slide the shelf back into position. The last thing is to refit the tray door onto the tabs on both end caps. Slide it into position onto one end cap tab, then GENTLY push the tab back on the other side and fit it into position on the tray cover.

This sounds more complicated than it is, but there are no instructions with the replacement piece, which in my opinion is bad for customer relations. This is also a really bad design. If you accidentally leave the tray door open when you close the refrigerator door, the refrigerator door will hit the tray door and break one of the tabs.

a) removed screws with nutdriver
b) took out old piece
c) disassembled good parts from broken piece
d) reassembled good parts on new piece.
e) reattached new piece
f) reattached door to crisper.

I had put off dealing with this repair thinking it would be too complicated and expensive. Was I fooled! I removed the vegetable drawers, shelf and pantry drawer. Then I removed two small bolts using a socket and power drill (very carefully). The entire piece just came right out. There's a small screw holding the air regulator onto the back wall of the refrigerator. This is all connected to the pantry cap, so it has to be removed as well. Once both pieces were out, I just carefully separated the air flow regulator from the borken end cap, attached the new piece, and then bolted/screwed everything back into place. Very easy and inexpensive!