TB18RL-P1184608WL Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Like you video

Put the support in

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

with a phillips screwdriver I removed the old handle and replaced it with the new one. Very easily done. The parts I ordered came when I was told they would. The whole experience was a "piece of cake".

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

The old piece had broken off, so no removal of the old part was necessary.

New post snapped right into place, no tools required.

Total time for repair was less than two minutes.

I ordered the post, pulled it out of the box, pulled off the glass, pulled out the drawers. I looked at where the post looked like it shoul go and put it in. put the drawers in, glass on. It took me about 5 minutes and everything is perfect.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

removed upper freezer door, then removed refrig door,laid door on 2 saw horses, removed screws holding old gasket on,removed old gasket, installed new gasket as instructed by the on-line video,used an electric hair dryer to soften up gasket and work out the kinks,remounted he doors and i was done. door is back to sealing properly. the on-line video was very helpful

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

did not remove the doors. did freezer first ,removed inner door planel install gasget on panel and reinstalled. the aloney problem i had was trying to resape the door gasget on the big door. which is still a little out of shape hopeing it will fall in line over time.

Exposed evaporator and fan.Turned refer back on. Evaporator started to get cold but fan did not run. Removed fan and applied 115 volts. Fan did not run. Installed new fan kit. Old refer works as good as new. Vary easy job. I almost bought a new refer. Glad I didn't. Probably saved myself $500+ Shopped several sites on internet. Other sites wanted about the same price for motor only and 15-20 bucks more for the fan. Vary pleased that I found this company to buy this part. Received fan kit in just a few days.