TX25R4E-P1175402WE Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

I used a phillips screw driver to remove the screws. The toughest part was removing the lower screw cover so that it could be reused. Piece of cake!

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

Had wife remove all the food from the bottom of the refrigerator. Removed the glass shelf , two drawers and the frame that they all sit in. Removed old broken crisper rail and replaced it with the new one, after I installed the wheel that the drawer slides on. Put everything back in place then called wife to put food back in where she wanted it.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Exposed evaporator and fan.Turned refer back on. Evaporator started to get cold but fan did not run. Removed fan and applied 115 volts. Fan did not run. Installed new fan kit. Old refer works as good as new. Vary easy job. I almost bought a new refer. Glad I didn't. Probably saved myself $500+ Shopped several sites on internet. Other sites wanted about the same price for motor only and 15-20 bucks more for the fan. Vary pleased that I found this company to buy this part. Received fan kit in just a few days.

Like you video

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Needed ice maker bucket for extra fridge. Part came the next day, and worked perfectly.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.